Wayne mentioned a very clever way of storing some QSO
information for logging purposes.
I use a small, cheap digital voice memo recorder. I
think I got it at a hamfest for $4 ... one of the old
ones, but quite suitable to store a few QSOs worth of
information. It gets velcroed (that is a word?)
I don't know how, but some smoke was let out. Unit is
in NJQRP PC board case. Worked great a while back.
Has not been used in over a year.
Minor damage; but no time to fix. Will send to clever
person for Priority Mail postage cost (~$5). Have
schematic, and probably also the other
Mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.
It IS the standard, if you assemble it as drawn (no
matter how confusing the drawing is).
It ISN'T the standard, if you assemble it backwards on
purpose so as to NOT be able to use your other
PowerPole cables that are lying around because they
DON'T have in-line
Has the baby arrived yet?
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must
I got a KPA100 kit in May 2003 as a birthday gift from
my wife. For a whole bunch of silly reasons, I didn't
get around to building it for over a year. The good
news about the delay is I was able to get the updates
to the kit so that it went together with no need for
changes.
It's been running
This is an odd one ...
I'm sure I can figure it out, but, let me see if this
has happened to anyone else before.
K2 #0771, ancient but superior, and loaded, now with
the 100W amp.
Has always worked superbly, and so much so that I
recently made it my main shack rig.
To make life nicer, I
I have an all-chrome 'decorator' version of the D-104
and amplified base, which adds a PTT bar on the base
in addition to the 'grip to talk' classic PTT bar.
It's wired for Kenwood / K2 and looks and sounds
pretty good (settings SSBA-1 and SSBC-2, near minumum
gain on the mic preamp). But I have
Thanks for the many replies; mic is sold.
To the M who can't find the parts locations: I have
the same problem. But, it gets logarithmically easier
as you populate the board! Once a location is
filled your eyes/brain don't have to 'scan' there
any more, and so finding the missing places gets
Have provision to plug in regular keyboard.
I have a 11 regular keyboard I use for portable
operations. There probably would be a good market for
a converter/display like that. Why tie it to the KX1,
or FSK31?
Indeed, there is now such a device, from AmQRP.org,
called the Micro908. I have
A new K2 owner just wrote, in part: THIS IS A FUN
RADIO!
It sure is, isn't it? One small gray box, that brings
together a lot of what amateur radio is all about.
My K2 will soon celebrate its 5th birthday, with well
over 10,000 hours of on-time. Today, #0771 has nearly
five thousand brothers
Somebody asked about the HFPack amplifier kit. I
built one and put it into a K1 blank case. A tight
fit, but, it sure looked nice. I even used a
PowerPole connector on the back. Ended up selling it,
and got the KPA100. ;-)
I pulled this ad off the eHam.net forum ... don't know
the guy, but,
I am about to order a KAT100 (and the little tilt bail
that goes with it, which I wish the KAT100 picture
showed more clearly).
While I am placing the order, I was also thinking
about getting a new set of motion-matched crystals for
my K2 and SSB board. The ones I have are originals
from the
I have used the Logikey for years. Stated as simply
as possible, it's Elecraft-grade. If you haven't used
one, your should try it. I'd pay for an add-in of the
Logikey to the K2, were that possible. Ideally,
taking the keyer function out of the main CPU would
free up code space for other
WG4S mentioned a dilemma I have had many times over
the years. Even with readily available receivers, I
can't really judge how I sound to myself locally all
that well. I always want to hear myself over an RF
link. I can always hear artifacts of keying or 'phone
adjustments better when there's a
... thanks to all for the advice on getting the
crystal filter uprade ... seems like my early K2 had a
well-matched set to begin with ...
On another note, what is in a name? The K2 is named
after the mountain, and I guess the K1 is, too. (See
http://www.jerberyd.com/climbing/stories/k2 for a
Plane is to pilot as soldering iron is to electronics
hobbyist. You can get a nice controlled-temperature
soldering station at Sears, these days. Weller
WLC-100 I think. Handy.
I've had my Weller WTCPL since 1979 and would buy a
new one, if I had to. But I don't have to, ha! This
one still
1. Bill 'LR recently wrote, in part:
I think I could prefer a menu item to select the VOX
delay, and just have the mode-hold toggle the VOX on
and off.
Bill is right. While handing out all 12 of my Qs for
the rare NC section ;-) during the 'phone SS, I found
myself wishing for exactly this
Yesterday I put in-line my new KAT100 autotuner. This
event marks yet another works 100% the first time
Elecraft kit. In fact, except for a single resistor I
installed incorrectly in 1999, *ALL* of my Elecraft
kits have come up, first-time, 100%.
Recently I saw a thread about kitbuilding
Someone posted about getting a new mic as a gift, and
the desire to make the one mic operate across several
rigs.
This is actually quite do-able if you're handy and
wish to make an adapter as mentioned. I've done this
and was very happy with the results.
I used an inexpensive small enclosure
uuF was used to spec cap values in tube equipment.
The introduction of semiconductors forced a conversion
to use the 'pico' prefix.
Same with hertz. Tube gear measured frequency in
cycles per second. The transistor changed all of
that.
Today, the use of surface mount parts has caused the
need
Stewart G3RXQ wrote:
It would be very helpful if someone could check
their K2/KPA100/KAT100 and see
if they get the same results.
Yes, my K2/KPA100/KAT100 does the same thing.
Thatr being said: I never tried the DISPLAY/TUNE
feature before to see what the rig will do full-bore,
nor would
It's that 50 volt 20 amp supply
that's a killer!
Actually, this voltage/current is very easy to come
by, and relatively low in cost. The telephone
industry uses this voltage and at high currents.
Surplus is readily available, and often at prices less
than the per-watt cost of a 13.8V high
Apparently, Weller is offering a $20 rebate on their
famous model WTCPT, the one that works on the Curie
temperature principle. This is my favorite iron,
still, after almost 30 years, and I have had them all
(Edsyn, Hakko, Metcal, Pace, to name a few). A very
forgiving tool for the newbie, and a
Using the K1 as a base line for time and difficulty.
Please compare the K2 and KX1. I wish to start looking
at my next project. I like building kits
The K2 is essentially the same level of building
complexity as the K1, IMHO. The K2 just takes longer
to build because there are more boards and
I am considering using an LDG AT-100Pro or
LDG Z-100 tuner with my K-2.
I like the guys in Maryland who make these fine units.
However, I sold mine, in favor of the Elecraft
tuners.
Why?
Three reasons:
1. (obvious) the integrated, automatic
pre-setting-per-antenna-per-VFO function, and
I wrote:
The Elecraft tuning algorithm is recursive,
passing the implicit null(s) and finding the
real
one. Once you have this feature, you won't go back.
Andrea asked:
Could you elaborate on this point?
Well, perhaps an elaboration is best made by the guys
that made the thing.
The
Bill
On paper, you're right. For the vast majority of
hams, N connectors are silly.
However, there are many other considerations of
station design that influence connector choice.
Most of my connections are outdoors and my station is
built with nearly 100% hardline. All cables can be
used
Elderly, but mojo-filled and fully loaded K2 #0771 has
received new updates of T1 and T2 from the Toroid Guy,
and new crystals in both the SSB and CW filters.
Results? A fabulous radio made even better ... which
is mighty hard to believe, but it's so. Better
stop-band rejection, better
Vic (and others)
I use both stepper motors and selsyns here for remote
tuning applications.
I prefer the selsyns, but they are harder to come by.
Besides the simplicity and torque, the selsyn has the
advantage of haptic feedback.
By far, the smartest way to turn a stepper is found in
this
But, what is the best key to start with -
straight, iambic,
non-iambic? or
what. So many choices and I need advice.
I echo what Don said and might chime in with a few
other comments ... I hear SOOO many absolutely
dreadful fists these days, most with new 2x3 calls -
but not all!! ... I am
N5VWN wrote:
I'm at my wit's end trying to figure out why there is
no words appearing on the K2 on the phase 1 test.
I've felt frustrated many times while building, too,
and I've been at it over 30 years. You are not alone.
But you've buit a Rockmite and a Pixie. The K2 is
WAAAY easier to
The Palstar ZM-30 is essentially the AmQRP Micro908
kit antenna analyzer, less some features, and
repackaged as a manufactured item.
I have a Micro908.
It's beyond fabulous. I sold my MFJ and the Autek.
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Has anyone reduced his rig collection to just a
K2/100 and regretted it? If so, would you mind
sharing your reasons why? I'm considering doing just
that - the reducing, not the regretting. :-) A lot
of very
personality dependent variables in the decision, but
I'm curious nevertheless.
Mike: I
OK, I wanted to build a plug-n-play off-center-fed
doublet for Field Day to match my K1 (40-30-20-17) /
KAT1 / solar powered portable station. This aerial
would be much like the old Fritzel, with some
customization for my purposes.
I reasoned I could fiddle with the offset (and maybe
one
NB: this posting is about an Elecraft radio
;-)
* * *
I was thinking about doing two things to my vereable
K2 #0771, as I wait for new Elecraft toys:
... one is to re-jigger the divider resistors to
offset the K2 voltmeter so it reads what my actual
input-port voltage is, rather than the
I've been asked several times what connectors I used
to allow a quick disconnect of my KBT1 power
connection. So here is the information, for the
archive, in case others wish to do similarly.
I wanted the setup to be foolproof, in that neither
end had exposed contacts when disconnected.
So, I
I forget when I got my KAF2, but it was pretty much
right when they came out.
My clock seesm to lose its marbles a lot these days.
I figure it might be the lithium cell. Wonder how
long they are supposed to last for in this
application?
I have a picoammeter here at work. Maybe I could hook
it
1. will the T1 tuner ever be made available as a bare
board? (as in, no enclosure)
2. does the T1 tuner go into active mode upon being
powered with DC, or, does it still require the 'power'
button to be activated?
Reason for asking: I want to use this tuner remotely,
packaged by me. It would
I have had great luck with the inexpensive little
gizmos sold by KG7RO.
http://www.geocities.com/qro_baluns/product.html
(standard no-commercial-relationship disclaimers
apply)
I use one of these (a 6.25:1) or the W1CG 4:1 QRP
balun from NJQRP (no longer available as a kit) with
my K1 go kit
Another K3 on the used market ...
http://swap.qth.com/search-results.php?keywords=666439fieldtosearch=ListingNo
It strikes me as odd to see such listings, personally.
This is a superlative radio, and one that's backordered for months.
Indeed, I am awaiting my own Katiegram in another 4 or 5
K2 #0771, the World's Most Experienced Elecraft, has been replaced by K3 #1209.
K3: Ordered 2/19, arrived 7/10, now on the air. Just about 6 1/2 hrs.
assembly time (K3/100/ATU). My humble congratulations to the development team.
The K2 - nearly nine years old - has been set up as a field
Hello
I noticed CW output power on 40M was off by a small amount, 7-10%. (Was set to
100W.)
Meters are Bird 43 and LP-100. 2 kW dummy load has mondo return loss (26 dB).
So, I went to see what the 40 meter HP TX gain setting was, and it seems like
it was topped out.
K3 didn't quite
Hello
I noticed CW output power on 40M was off by a small amount, 7-10%. (Was set to
100W.)
Meters are Bird 43 and LP-100. 2 kW dummy load has mondo return loss (26 dB).
So, I went to see what the 40 meter HP TX gain setting was, and it seems like
it was topped out.
K3 didn't quite
I needed a new headset to go with my new K3. I decided to experiment, since I
wanted something different, but it had to be *very* nice in order to 'beat' the
Heil Pro-Set Plus which was the alternative. My requirements: extremely
comfortable, great aesthetics, well-made, top sound
My K3 setup is configured to put out about 30W on PSK31, with my sound card
dedicated to APSK/AFSK modes and its output locked in place to make that power
level at 1250 Hz. My TX IMD is excellent.
However ... if I select a PSK31 spot where the resultant audio frequency is
below, say, 800 Hz,
Thanks to the several responders to my posting. According to Don Wilhelm, even
in Data A mode, the TX EQ stays in line for any SSB mode. Yikes. My TX EQ
settings are idealized for my voice via my microphone, and for SSB, not data.
I just assumed that since this 'Data A' mode drops out the
The 2SC1969 is available and in stock at MCM:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/2SC1969
I imagine substitutes are available but I can not comment on this.
Perhaps the current BOM for the K1 kit would reflect such a component change.
I did not look to see.
73 Steve KZ1X/4
K1, K2, K3, etc.
For the ham who wanted to know about hooking up his K2/100 to a TenTec QSK
amplifier ...
I just did a 100 Q SP 'session' for CQWW CW, using The World's Most
Experienced Elecraft (a.k.a. K2 #0771, now at 65k hours power-on and counting)
and a TenTec Model 422 Centurion amplifier.
(This is
Gee, it's been almost eight years of nearly continuous, flawless operation!
But my K2 --just now-- decided to stop working on 160.
I was doing a little SP, looking for mults in the contest, and all of a
sudden, the receiver stopped working.
Doesn't transmit, either.
It's fine on other
Don
Yes, it really does 'fade out' - but it does so pretty quickly, like, in 5
seconds or less. Kind of neat,
actually, it would be hard to design a circuit that does this on purpose!
Any band change or power cycle brings it back, and, it even comes back all by
itself, after a while.
The RX
I wonder if the DSP in the K3 has the ability to run something like this:
http://n1su.com/fdmdv
?
Or, if not now, what sort of modular upgrade could be re-fitted in the future?
Never miss a thing.
The hi-res picture of the K3 on the web site is a 'shot' of the prototype
version of the front panel.
Is there an updated picture available?
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with
The internal keyer in my K2 seems to have a different 'weighting' (or
something) compared to my new K1EL Winkeyer.
I have been playing with the settings on the latter to try and make these two
devices 'sound' the same.
Frankly, after 8+ years, I've grown to like the K2's rhythm in this
Howdy John ...
Here's what I have done so far to make the Winkeyer 'emulate' the feel of the
K2 internal keyer
1. I stored just my call in the K2 memory # 3, and set the speed to 25WPM
indicated
2. I stored the same call in the Winkeyer memory #1, and set the speed to 26
WPM indicated
3. I
Or the faster you spin the knob the larger the stepping increment.
Yes, that's the right way to do this.
And, after the code is written to read the encoder this way, apply it to the
VFO as well.
I'd much rather spin the knob fast and have the rig accelerate tuning (like my
Icom did) than to
If there's an in-band carrier (S8, say) ... and I notch it out, does the 'S'
meter still show the carrier?
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
Remember the guy who took his K2 to the South Pole?
http://www.elecraft.com/PictureGallery/KC4_sign.jpg
Well, here he is, up to something, again:
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2008/02/22/100
Way to go, Jim!
* * *
Steve KZ1X/4
Owner of the World's Most Experienced Elecraft
There's recently been some discussion here about the
digital voice capabilities of the K3.
Disclaimer: I don't pretend to even have the slightest
idea what's in the minds of the K3 designers, or their
marketing direction.
I have seen the AOR DV 'modem' ... but I've never met
G4GUO. I'm not a
I'd like to understand more about the use of the
buttons M1 through M4, as they apply to memory recall
within a given band.
The best way for Elecraft to show off this radio's
bazillion functions is to create a meta-tagged MPEG4
video of someone (Wayne?) going through each function
of the entire
I'd like to know more about the K3's DSP engine and if it's powerful enough to
do a G4GUO type codec.
I'm not smart enough to make an estimate about the needed processing power
partly because I don't know what the rig is capable of, and partly because I
haven't played with a vocoder that does
Parts:
If it makes the Elecraft guys feel any better, other manufacturers of every
stripe have just as hard a time getting some parts as you do. A critical
assembly I have now, at work, is several weeks delayed in release due to the
same problem. I have a full-time staff that does nothing
I am curious as to why the volume control was moved from the traditional /
conventional 'lower row' to the 'next row up' position.
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo!
I wish there was a good way to know what the fans sound like in the K3/100.
Ironically, here at home I actually have an acoustic anechoic chamber (don't
ask) and could make such a measurement ... if I had a suitable calibrated
microphone, that is. I wonder if Spectrogram or some other
I wish there was a good way to know what the fans sound like
in the K3/100.
They sound the same on as when they are off, unless you really are in an
anechoic chamber. They are incredibly quiet, so much so that I thought they
weren't working and had to go around behind the rig to verify the
Hmmm. Isn't the display in question actually a link to Clifton Labs?
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/Z90.htm#Z90
This has actually been available for some time.
You'd have to ask Jack Smith, K8ZOA, the proprietor of the company, to see
what's what.
I'm only a remote drooler.
KZ1X:
Hmmm. Isn't the display in question actually a link to Clifton Labs?
Bill W4ZV: thanks, I had to refresh my browser cache to see the update of the
Telepostinc.com website.
Looks like another great reason to buy the K3. (As if I needed another one.)
Might need two sound cards in the PC,
While I agree that Mouser is a super parts source,
nothing beats buying Elecraft parts from ... Elecraft!
Steve KZ1X/4
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Ken K0PP recently mentioned a need to 'convert' between an Icom wired mic and
the Kenwood style wiring used on the K3. Others have also recently been
looking for the 8 pin Foster style connector.
There's a version of that connector that is SO superior in quality and feature
that it's hard not
A long time friend of mine used to run a ham dealership, which he closed some
years ago for personal reasons. He has a small remaining quantity of brand
new, old stock Bencher BY-1 (black base) and BY-2 (chrome base) paddles. He
does not have a computer or personal internet access, not even a
Does anyone out there have experience using this particular ladder line:
http://www.w7fg.net/ladder/ladder.html
?
tnx
Steve KZ1X/4
owner of the world's most experienced Elecraft
Be a better pen
I have found it quite easy to design in a USB serial port, and at low cost.
Several of my company's products use the FTDI MM232R module. It's quite
flexible and clever.
For my XP and Vista machines, it was plug-n-play, and the device comes up as a
COM port, just as expected. For other
K2 #0771 is just a week shy of 7 years old.
In that time, except for brief periods of transport to
and from Field Day, and for bench work (upgrades), it
has been powered on continuously.
Yes, that's right, nearly seven years of power-on
time. Zero failures. Never disconnected from an
antenna.
I was dutifully folowing the execllent-as-always
Elecraft instructions for this upgrade, when I came
upon a step that says to put the rig into 8r HOLD
mode.
I really don't like that mode, due to the loud audio
clicks it causes in CW, as the transmitter shuts off.
8r Normal mode doesn't produce
I have a Hakko 493 and I'm quite pleased with it,
although I don't use it as often as I probably should.
It's quiet and does not take up a lot of space. I got
mine surplus for a fraction of the new price. I am
WAY too cheap to pay street for such a gizmo ... but
then again, it's not a necessity
K2 # 0771 is in for a 60,000 hour tune-up.
Yes, 60k hours!
I'm encouraged to do this because I got my first HF
element for my Bird 43 and also an LP-100, plus I am
itching to build something, not because there's
anything wrong with the radio.
I'm looking for some tips in two areas...
#1:
I tuned K2 # 0771 into the 160M contest this evening,
just to listen.
I dialed up the band, into the 'phone area above 1870.
The VFO display indicates the operating frequency, as
normal, but dialing frequencies aboove about 1930
makes no change in where the radio is tuning.
Dial back down,
Don and Tom, as always, responded in mere minutes to
my question ... even after all these years here seeing
such level of assistance, I'm still humbled by the
helpfulness and gereosity of guys like these. Makes
me proud to be a ham. My thanks.
Anyway: what I was getting at was not so much what
A relatively quick fix...
I looked with my 'scope and saw the oscillator peter
out with the dial set to around 1925 ... a couple
counterclockwise turns of L30 snapped it right into
place.
No issues on any other bands.
Took the opportunity while the rig was open to re-cal
the PLL, re-set some
I hope there's an easy way to have the keyboard
implement multiple band stacking registers.
It's on my list of nearly must have features.
NOW I have a good reason to go ... See y'all at
Dayton.
/steve KZ1X
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... OCRA got a nice Field Day publicity article (and
100 point bonus) anyway:
http://www.herald-sun.com/orange/10-747205.html
The 20CW and 40CW positions this year both were
running Electaft K1 sets. This is the 1st year since
2000 that I gave K2 #0771 a late June break, although,
as always, my
http://aconews.com/noc/
K1-4 running SP on 40 for FD'06 ... the operator is
an Elecraft fan, but the fan shown is for the operator!
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I just went to reprogram my K1 message memories,
replacing the Field Day exchange messages.
I recorded a 3x3 CQ message in memory #1.
When I do that, I leave an interword gap between each
of the 3 'CQs' and then after the 'DE' and also
between the 'X' at the end of my call and the
following 'K'
The hands-down nicest ones, ever, which are ironically
not more costly than low-grade hamfest specials, are
found here:
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/parts/4065.html
I daresay these connectors are worthy of Elecraft
official reference! Now, THAT is saying something!
Standard
Treid to post this before, did it not work?
http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/parts/4065.html
This connector is the bees' knees, truly K2 grade.
Standard disclaimers.
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Ron N1SZW wrote:
I won't go backpacking but I like the idea of 2
different radios. Also I like the idea of 2 same
radios for maintenance???
I don't frequently comment here on the reflector
(except that we miss Nils, El Gringo Errante) but this
question warrants an on-topic aside.
Ron has
After finishing up the front panel board, the
little rubber spacers kept falling off the PC
board. They stick, just not very well.
If it's any consolation, the rubber stick-on pads on
#0771 fell off some years ago, and I don't notice the
difference. I'm not all that certain what they were
FWIW: the AmQRP's Micro908 is essentially the kit
version of the Palstar (manufactured) unit. The
Micro908 has lots more functionality than its
factory-built sister, including a well-supported DSP
engine that is the same as the core of the Elecraft
K2DSP. And, the Micro908 is a kit, a big bonus
I guess the way to deal with it is to add more tuned
radials in parallel and a switchable base network, but
I would like to avoid any more control wires that have
to go through my lightning suppression panel (I can't
pass DC through the coax, either). Does anyone have
any suggestions?
* * *
Vic
While my AADE L-C meter is irreplaceable, I find that
for identifying / testing surface mount passives,
there's really no equal to the Smart Tweezers by
Excelta.
http://www.excelta.com/specials/ST-1.pdf
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I have a K1, with a KBT1 which I can pop out of the
rig
with speed, confidence, and ease.
The connectors used to allow a quick disconnect of
the KBT1 are the key to the modification.
Requirements:
1. I wanted my setup to be foolproof, in that neither
end had exposed contacts when
I was surfing on eBay and found auction #5852424318
for a partially-built K2, under circumstances I have
not seen before -- and certainly wish that it was not
so.
The rig is being sold by the owner's widow.
I did not know the sk N9PT myself, but I'd bet a
dollar he'd have wanted that rig
For those of you who have built your KPA100 in an EC2
(as a two-box configuration) what type cabe did you
use to fabricate the interconnect? And, more
importantly, why did you select whatever cable you did
use? For example, did you use what was readily
available, or did you buy a particular
This is great information, guys, thanks. I expect
that a LOT of 10W K2 owners will be adding KPA100
stages, in anticipation of the forthcoming QRO
amplifier. One or two or three I know, in particular!
By the way: my K2 #0771 has now passed 35,000 hours
of 'on' time. That's not a typo: 35k+
I caught a couple of questions regarding leaving the
power on, on a K2.
#0771 has been powered on, almost continuously, for
about 5 years, and had plenty of on-time before that.
It is run from a bank of three paralleled 100 amp-hour
AGM batteries, floated on a Samlex SEC-1223 (that's a
trickle
I don't know if anybody else on the reflector does
this, but everytime I turn my K2 on, and use if on a
DX-ped hour after hour, I sit and look at this itty
bitty radio, and am just amazed at how something so
small, can be so
good! anybody else do this?
Yes. This is normal behavior.
I've never seen one before, but I am curious ...
http://www.gigaparts.com/parts/profile.php?sku=zgr-hsp-1a
No relationship with the vendor or manufacturer, YMMV,
etc.
... if someone out there has one, please tell what you
think. This would be *awfully* handy for portable
use.
Steve KZ1X/4
K2
I am fortunate enough to have, either at work or at
home, at least one each of the several top-grade
soldering stations Pace, Metcal, Hakko, Edsyn,
Weller ... and several versions of each of these
manufacturers' product lines as well, in some cases.
As you'd expect, for professional use, the
K2 #771, the world's most experienced Elecraft, popped D1 and D2 on the
KAT2. I fear that it also took out the two ADC inputs on U1. CALn does not
work after replacing the diodes. The reading is very noisy. There is also
not any power control which could mean something else is also fried.
At Field Day on Saturday 26 June, around 1800 local EDT, my K2 #771
took what appears to have been an induced voltage spike from the
connected antenna.
I brought the rig home at 11:30PM and diagnosed the problem, and
replaced two of the three parts that were zapped in the KAT2. My K1
assumed air
Ken
A variety of inexpensive (3rd party) devices are on the market to do exactly
as you propose.
One source is NetBurner:
http://www.netburner.com/products.html
Digi also sells top grade products.
(I am only a customer of these firms.)
My personal experience trying to lobby multiple
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