A friend is thinking about clearing out her grandmother's millinery supplies
—she was a professional milliner around 1890-1900 in New England. Original
untouched boxes of feathers from Boston, ribbons, etc.
I'd love to give her some names to contact. Any ideas?
Thanks,Dede
Heck, yeah... Mouse proof underwear? Do tell. ☺☺☺
Dede
> I found a reference to a lady's "mouse proof" underwear, which piqued my
> curiosity, but I hesitated to post about it because the list had been so
> quiet lately. _
West Village Studio
www.workroombuttons.com
That really does sound like a dream house! Hope the transition goes smoothly
and that there are no more surprises (at least not costly ones). :-)
-Dede _
West Village Studio
www.workroombuttons.com
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
To: Historical Costume
It's possible. After all, there is an abundance of fabric to control.
-Dede
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2015 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Stange detail on early 1900's shirtwaists - help?
The
Ah... of course. I was picturing something else. I've actually seen small
antique buckles and thought they had been separated from... a very narrow belt,
maybe? Buckles as fasteners... hmm...
-Dede
From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Isabella... this is perfect! Thanks so much! Exactly the right era, and
yes... I imagine that particular detail would make laundry much easier for
students, or perhaps for the underpaid ladies who did it for them. :-(
Instead of a buckle, as Sharon suggested, perhaps a straight pin was used
We've encountered a puzzling detail present on several early 1900's shirtwaists
at the Reed Homestead (THS Clothing Collection). One example can be seen here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/albums/72157657235770901
Please be sure to scroll down a bit and read the descriptions
if that is the case). Blouses of this period could
button in either the front or the back, but whichever has the ties sewn
to it is the back.
Hope this helps.
Fran
Lavolta Press
Books of historic clothing patterns
www.lavoltapress.com
On 8/14/2015 8:21 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote:
We've
Did I really misspell strange in the title? *groan*
_
West Village Studio
www.workroombuttons.com
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This is entirely possible to me, although I have no idea if it's something
commonly done at the time! The outer ties folded and sewn to a point, if that
makes a difference. The inner ties, in addition to being longer, are finished
plainly.
Dede
From: Sharon Collier
We happen to know exactly where it came from!
Letty Amanda Strout wore this blouse / shirtwaist while a student at Wellesley
College (class of 1907). At some point, it was washed, ironed, and put away.
It was stuffed in a garbage bag sometime in the 1970s.
Every stitch is original and nothing
My grandmother, whose sewing methods were definitely 19th century (taught by
her grandmother, who was taught by HER grandmother, etc.) hemmed the ends with
tiny stitches. Hope that helps!
Dede
I'm making a couple of Regency bonnets, with satin ribbons as
Carolann, thank you for the detailed analysis of your collection! This is so
interesting -- I never knew such specialized fabric existed.
Dede
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http://thesewingacademy.org/index.php?topic=8760.0
By special order, but... yes! You can still buy pre-corded fabric!
Fabric is a little different than what was used at Read Homestead, which has
wider cordless areas (presumably meant for tucks as that is how they were used).
Dede
There were many types of pre- corded fabric available with different
spacing, different size cords, different cording patterns. A wider
cordless area does not necessarily indicate tucks. :-)
Oh, those tricky Victorians... :-D
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An overnight soak in baby shampoo and OxyClean (and a lot of rinsing) cleans
antique linen superbly and safely. Specifically, a dirty, stained handwoven
tablecloth. I was actually shocked -- it was pristine.
Dede
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Back at the Reed Homestead... the ladies and I are pulling out old petticoats
that have not yet been cataloged. Nancy Wexford never got to this pile.
We cleaned a corded petticoat last week. Date-wise, we're guessing maybe...
1840s -1860s? That's what I wrote down, anyway. We have pieces
Curious minds want to know: Is the cording in the warp or in the weft?
That is an excellent question. As I was writing the description, it occurred
to me that I don't remember. I will pull it out next time I'm there!
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Thanks! I think I found the statue you're describing:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg
You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes might have
been used by Chinese peasants. This may be irrelevant, but I read
On the contrary; it's very helpful! I hadn't even thought about cotton vs.
linen vs. wool vs. ?
Hopefully, I can learn a little more about cheap clothing dyes commonly used in
Ancient China. According to Wikipedia, indigo has been used in China for
centuries...
Any chance of a link to the original? There's an iPad app I want to
explore. . . ;) This link goes to a photo, not a page (the link which
shows on the photo isn't clickable).
== Marjorie Wilser
My apologies... I'm not sure where the image was originally posted, but I got
it from
Judging from the URL on that image, it is probably taken from the National
Geographic article.
-- Cathy Raymond
ca...@thyrsus.com
(610) 805-9542
Thanks -- I followed the URL, but it led to a dead end. Luckily, the blog I
linked had it.
-Dede
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Excellent ideas! I will definitely explore them -- thank you!
I'm a little nervous about the percussion warrior costumes -- the word
elaborate was mentioned a few times... just need to get through the pit
peasants before I start panicking.
I saw an abbreviated exhibit of the terra cotta
...or Tales of a Band Mom.
This year's winter percussion piece is Terra Cotta Warriors and first order
of business... peasant costumes for kids in the pit (stationary instruments
like xylophones, chimes, etc.)
What the heck did Chinese peasants wear in 3rd century BC? Our band director
is
--- On Wed, 8/15/12, fastusminimus cah...@zoominternet.net wrote:
...my newest-to-me one is a National 2 Spool, the bobbin is a small spool of
thread. You can straight stitch forever...
I never dreamed this ever existed! Wow...
Try soaking your blouse overnight in a *very* strong solution of OxyClean
powder (or generic thereof). Strong, as in just dump it in.
For spot cleaning on white fabric, I've had a lot of success rubbing a paste of
OxyClean and liquid hydrogen peroxide onto the stain (chemical reaction = heat,
Try blotting, or possible soaking at this stage, with denatured alcohol.
Rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol will work, but not as well.
Good luck!
Dede O'Hair
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The manufacturer is selling at least some of them via Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bl_sr_arts-crafts?_encoding=UTF8node=2617941011field-brandtextbin=JHB%20International%20Inc#/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Darts-craftsfield-keywords=jhb+steampunkrh=n%3A2617941011%2Ck%3Ajhb+steampunk
Instead of flowers, maybe winter greens? Pine, balsam, holly (with bright red
berries), etc. Also, could flowers be fashioned out of white paper?
-Dede O'Hair
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To Everyone:
I sincerely apologize for turning this into a soap opera.
One of our volunteers is also a volunteer at the Concord (Mass) Historical
Society. And although we don't really have a formal policy regarding
dissemination, they do, and it's VERY strict due in part to their large
--- On Thu, 9/22/11, WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com wrote:
A very kind list member wisely suggested I take the photos down
until I have formal permission, and so I have done that.
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http
www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/sets/72157627724105088/detail
Posted with permission. :-)
-Dede
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Definitely not a clothing expert, either, but it certainly makes sense to me.
Consultants far wiser than I have documented them as garments specifically worn
by women.
Link: www.flickr.com/photos/workroombuttons/sets/72157627724105088/detail
Dede
--- On Thu, 9/22/11, Angelique Carlson
This won't be very helpful, but...
The sacques are all roughly the same size as the dress bodices from the same
period. Men's shirts from the same period are measurably larger. Since
everything is from one family, one could assume that the sacques were worn by
the Reed ladies.
Link:
I asked our director about use of the term VCR (she had to look it up as the
transcripts predate her). Yup -- Video Cassette Recorder. Nancy Rexford was
recorded on video as well as on cassette tape; the transcript was pulled from
the tape.
Before I provide the link to some photos I took
Joan, we have men's shirts, as well, and they are very different from these.
These garments are smaller, and well... more feminine (?). They are open all
the way down the front, with a neck closure.
It's clear that I'm not an expert.
--- On Wed, 9/21/11, Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net
I looked her up (her name is on the transcript). She appears to be very
knowledgeable, but of course that's no guarantee of accuracy. Also, she was
faced literally with dozens of bulging plastic garbage bags and may have missed
clues dues to the sheer enormity of her task.
We (two elderly
Not only that, but the actual working space was...well, horrible. Dirty,
poorly lit, and very (very) crowded -- not quite attic space, but very close.
It's slightly better now. The ladies have since cleared out a tiny back room,
tearing down filthy tattered 1840's wallpaper (and saving as
Hey, we're psychic! *cue spooky music*
Apparently, our Board of Directors didn't think to suggest a donation, so of
course... we got nuthin'. And they left the front door open! Hmph!
We don't get Syfy, but I found a preview link for Episode 714 (Ghostly
Evidence)...
No chance at all. We're lucky we have an extension cord for the light
fixture! No heat or AC, so the work is seasonal lest we freeze/roast up there.
Dede
--- On Thu, 9/15/11, Carmen Beaudry moreplen...@earthlink.net wrote:
It looks and sounds like you need an off-site storage and workroom
Thank you for the link! It appears to be very close, although ours are all
plain cotton (sheeting weight) and have no front closures (a few have ties at
the neck, I think). Straight pins, maybe? We JUST started working on them,
and I'll look for pin-holes.
Dede
--- On Thu, 9/15/11, Katy
, WorkroomButtons.com westvillagedrap...@yahoo.com wrote:
Re: drawers
So far, we have found one pair of split drawers in the vast attic-sized pile,
er... collection. Definitely worn by a child. Were they actually worn by
grown women?
Dede
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Back at the Reed Homestead... we are moving on to the next pile -- stacks and
stacks of shirt-like garments with no closures (other than a few with ties at
the neck).
We hired a woman in 1995 to start pulling clothing literally out of garbage
bags and start cataloging. (Sadly, we still have
Oh, and this is the kind of thing we find when we research sacque (hence NOT
the dress):
www.reconstructinghistory.com/assets/products/3237/product/RH821frontcover.jpg?1298667926
Dede
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I actually had my nose 2 from that dress at the travel exhibit (Boston Museum
of Science). No photos, of course, but I remember... pine-ish color (maybe
overshot with something else?), with some kind of smocking -- it seemed almost
random (but wasn't).
Not much help, I know...
Dede
Okay, dumb question, but... why did they need drawers at all? Chemise, layers
of petticoats, and long skirts -- everything totally obscured, so why bother
with drawers?
Dede O'Hair
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net wrote:
Victorian women NEEDED split drawers. They wore a long
Impressive research!.. Of all of them, this is probably the closest:
http://ny-image3.etsy.com/il_fullxfull.256039843.jpg
...but the necks are rounded, and snug. They are also older than the pattern
date.
Thanks!
Dede
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote:
Are you talking
The majority, at least, appear to be cotton and are hand sewn.
Dede
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, Chris Laning clan...@igc.org wrote:
I don't offhand see any mention of what these sacques are made of. Are they
white linen?
If so, as a medievalist, of course my reflex would be to simply consider these
I will attempt photos next Wednesday during our next scheduled sort the vast
pile meeting. Assuming my teenager can teach me to use her digital camera by
then... (yes, I am technology-impaired). Also, the lighting is terrible.
Dede
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
I'll certainly try (I have a Flickr account). The lady in charge takes photos
of everything as we pack them away, but they are for archival purposes.
We had a fly-by-night volunteer take photos of a day's work of chemises,
because she had a better camera... and we never saw her again (or the
Bear in mind I'm no expert, but they really do appear to be something a woman
would have worn. Not sure if any have laundry marks, but that would cinch it
as we know all the initials of the entire Reed family.
Perhaps she was introducing sacque as a generic term? Like shoe could
describe an
Unfortunately, I now completely understand why wearing split drawers would be
desirable.
Dede
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, otsisto otsi...@socket.net wrote:
For the ladies with meat
on their thighs it is a chaffing matter.
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Ah... that makes perfect sense. When she was not quite 12, my daughter
was a jr. docent in a hoop skirt. Let's just say sitting down, um...
modestly was a challenge. I had forgotten all about that experience!
Dede
--- On Wed, 9/14/11, Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com wrote:
If you
So far, we have found one pair of split drawers in the vast attic-sized pile...
Really! That's interesting.
I've seen dozens but they are
all kinda early. The seam gets sewn up I'd say (guess really) by the
1860's and by the 1880's you have combos... a bodice part and the
legs part in
Thank you! Apparently our initial thought was correct, that openings are in
the front. That stain threw me off. Were shifts worn as nightgowns? That
might explain things, if the wearer tended to twist around as she slept.
Were drawers worn as early as 1845 (give or take a few years either
Re: drawers
So far, we have found one pair of split drawers in the vast attic-sized pile,
er... collection. Definitely worn by a child. Were they actually worn by
grown women?
Dede
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I volunteer at our local historical site, which houses (among other things) a
vast collection of 19th century underwear. Today we cleaned and packed a stack
of circa 1845 ladies' shifts, all with a single button closure at the neck.
The shifts were all marked with a stamped (not embroidered)
Yes, the shift fronts (or backs) have an opening with button closure at the
neck. The necks are very wide (shoulder-to-shoulder), and there does not
appear to be a difference between front/back, height-wise.
I have teenaged daughters, and let's just say I am familiar with that
particular
Armholes appear to be the same front/back, also -- same depth. No apparent
difference.
--- On Wed, 8/10/11, Nordtorp-Madson, Michelle A. manordto...@stthomas.edu
wrote:
What about the armholes? Is there a difference in depth that would
indicate front and back.
Is there a direct link to wayback.org? What a valuable resource! Although...
just looked up obsolete versions of my website via the Sempstress link, and...
*cringe*
Dede
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I don't know if you're interested, but a shoe repair shop near us accepts shoes
by mail. They do excellent work: www.keosashoerepair.com
Dede O'Hair
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Maybe shoddy and/or mungo?
Benjamin Law developed a process of turning recycled old rags
mixed with some
virgin wool
into shoddy around 1813. He was unable at the time to figure out a way of
incorporating tailors' clippings into the
process. This was figured out by his nephews several years
Actually, I was originally hoping for some discussion on pre-Industrial shoddy
fabric -- I was wondering if shoddy was even produced before the 19th Century.
BUT... I think I answered my own question: according to The History of the
Shoddy-Trade (1860) p.18, manual labor can not produce the
By everyone, do you mean major pattern companies? Is PBS even on the radar
of the Big Three?
Dede
--- On Mon, 1/17/11, Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com wrote:
So is this the next costume drama where everyone will be rushing to reproduce
the costumes?
Fran
Ah... thank you, Elena. I forgot Downton Abbey was produced by the BBC, not
PBS.
My uneducated, uninformed, stab-in-the-dark guess is no, because however far
the reach of the BBC, it's still not Hollywood (which produced Out of Africa
and Titanic). However, my costume drama-crazed teenager
My daughter dropped chocolate on a handwoven antique linen tablecloth (don't
ask). I soaked it in baby shampoo and Oxy-Clean, and machine washed VERY
gently. Excellent results!
Linen isn't cotton, but perhaps the same treatment would be effective
(assuming, as Ann mentioned, it is strong
I am very, very new here, but... I remember when many member websites and
businesses were in their infancy. I really enjoyed discovering them, and I'm
so grateful to everyone who unknowingly refined my love of costuming.
Dede O'Hair
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I work with the Reed Homestead clothing collection (Townsend, MA). At least
one 1850-60 dress has fake outie back side seams. The back bodice is one
piece.
Don't know if that helps the discussion at all...
-Dede O'Hair
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