a schmartcard will let you wire it any way you need, and you don't have to have a board made. Don
Demian Martin > Being naïve I didn't know the HP custom chip would be difficult to > substitute. Since it was blown and not available I went searching and > found > a Maxim chip (MAX9691 I think) that would work on paper. It is surface > mount > and I managed to find a header that fit the HP socket and some careful > wiring from the legs of the chip to the pins on the header got it up and > running. I'm not sure my eyes are still up to this task. It seems it would > be a simple task to create the header with chip. I don't know if the 5370B > would be as easy to substitute. > -Demian > > > > > > > Date: Wed, 10 Mar 2010 00:03:04 +0000 > From: Mark Sims <hol...@hotmail.com> > Subject: [time-nuts] 5370A vs 5370B > To: <time-nuts@febo.com> > Message-ID: <blu125-w25460fafb6ba00b5258f2ce...@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > > I've had the "pleasure" of fixing way too many 5370A and 5370B front > panels. > It's been a while so these musings may be clouded... also beware of the > two or three different front panel designs. Also there are "hybrid" > 5370A's > out there with 5370B front ends. > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------- > > The biggest bugaboo in buying a 5370 is the state of the HP custom input > amplifier chips. They can be damaged by overloading the input. Blow one > and you are screwed. Buy a 5370 with a blown input amp and you are > screwed. > The 5370A and 5370B used different chips. The 5345A counter is a source > of > input amp chips. > > It would be VERY nice if some clever person built drop in replacement > "chips" built of modern SMD parts on a DIP header. Those input amp chips > are socketed. They are little more than a comparator. > > Quick check of the 5370A inputs is to set the unit to "SEParate" inputs > and > connect the back panel 10 MHz ref signal to each of the inputs. The > signal > level LED should flash. A steady LED means that input is toast (or the > input PCB slide switches are full of navel lint and need cleaning). > > > > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -- Dr. Don Latham AJ7LL Six Mile Systems LLP 17850 Six Mile Road POB 134 Huson, MT, 59846 VOX 406-626-4304 www.lightningforensics.com www.sixmilesystems.com _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.