Outboard motors also have an anode. I had an outboard that had spent it’s early life in salt water and the anode was pretty much gone when I got it. Put a new one in and in the 5 years or so that I had that boat I never saw any change in the anode (or in any on any other boats I’ve had). I attributed it to being in freshwater but I suppose it could also be related to how much time they actually sit in the water since we don’t have the boat actually in the water except when we use it.
From: AF <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Chuck McCown via AF Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 8:44 AM To: AnimalFarm Microwave Users Group <[email protected]> Cc: Chuck McCown <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Water heaters Boat anodes are zinc. They form a self galvanizing electrolytic cell that heal any bare steel scratches in the hull coating. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 1, 2020, at 3:39 AM, Forrest Christian (List Account) <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: There's usually a bolt looking thing on the top which is actually the end of the anode. The real purpose of the anode is to attract all the corrosive crap and corrode so your tank doesn't. Once it is fully corroded, you can either replace it, or the alternative is that your tank gets to corrode next and start to rust and eventually leak. Seeing as it's like $20 for a replacement and a water heater is more, it probably is good maintenance, but most people never bother.... just like most people don't bother flushing the hot water heater itself. On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 11:21 AM Steve Jones <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: I dont think Ive ever seen an anode on a water heater, inlet, outlet, popoff, burner, thermocouple, drain. Is that a new thing? I havent put in a new water heater in a long time, or is that for electric? On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 11:32 AM Erich Kaiser <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: If you are going to put a tank one in again make sure to replace the Anode rod with a DC powered one. If you check your existing heater does the rod even exist or has it corroded away (It is supposed to protect the tank from corrosion)? We had two 40 gal heaters replaced about 8 months ago, right after the install, we started to get a sulfur smell . In doing some research turns out even new hot water heater Anodes (magnesium) can have a reaction to well/hard water and the rod will need to replaced within a few years. I found that you can buy a DC rod and never replace it, so I went that route, did it myself and the smell instantly went away. When i took the rod out to replace it i could see the corrosion on the rod even from only being a few weeks old. Link to the anodes I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KIMC91W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 On Sun, Nov 29, 2020 at 12:35 AM Steve Jones <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: You guys all do different weird shit. Went to drain my gas heater tonite (may have put that maintenance off longer than intended) We are quarry country so we have super hard water. Needless to say tanks full of baked in sediment and when I cleared the valve I may have cracked the liner, about every ten seconds I'm getting a drip on the burner, and my pop off is dripping, probably some sediment. The water heater is the only thing I have that vents hot anymore and my chimney leaks in driving rain. Is rather just bash it in and put a dumbwaiter in the chase. I have the two fresh kids that I bet would have a blast riding that. Power vent gas looks to almost double the cost. Tankless is looking almost comparable in price for gas, so I'm curious if any of you guys run them without major water softener and filters. I'm planning on solar in the next 5 or 6 years when I redo my roof so electric would be the thing I go with on the water heater after the one I'm gonna have to put in now. I like gas water heaters because I know how to fix them, parts are cheap, same with my clothes dryers. But theyve priced themselves into me looking at my options. Tankless I dont know how to calculate gpm needs. But what led to this was taking the flow reducer out of my low flow shower head and running out of hot water in 20 minutes. I start my day by scalding myself for about a half hour cause I'm a filthy bastard and need to be cleansed of my sins. We have 2 bathrooms and a girl hitting her teens, so I assume we may be getting into a shower and bath coming on at the same time and the wife knowing what's good for her and washing dishes. She wont let me put a wood stove and still in the bathroom, so wood fired shower options are out. Are residential boilers a thing? All my walls had pocket doors so I have plenty of room for radiant walls, I dont know if boiler heat it even efficient though. -- AF mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com -- AF mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com -- AF mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com -- - Forrest -- AF mailing list [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> http://af.afmug.com/mailman/listinfo/af_af.afmug.com ________________________________ Total Control Panel Login<https://asp.reflexion.net/login?domain=litewire.net> To: [email protected]<https://asp.reflexion.net/address-properties?aID=242260993&domain=litewire.net> From: [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> You received this message because the domain afmug.com is on your allow list.
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