It is also a POE inserter.

From: George Skorup 
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 4:40 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

Let a surge suppressor be a surge suppressor. I will handle the over-current 
externally (fuses, PacketFlux electronic, etc).


On 3/21/2016 3:37 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:

  Yeah, I am coming to that conclusion I think.  

  From: Forrest Christian (List Account) 
  Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:32 PM
  To: af 
  Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

  You need to look at the curve on the polyfuse.  Because the trip is related 
to heating which is related to current it will trip much faster in many 
circumstances. ...  however the trip current varies widely with ambient 
temperature as well. 

  I'm not convinced that you can actually find a polyfuse which will protect 
Ethernet magnetics. 

  On Mar 21, 2016 4:14 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]> wrote:

    The poe card would not be the cause, it would be the victim.  The AP or 
wiring would be the cause.

    The polyfuse I am looking at takes 12 seconds to blow.  Trying to  protect 
the power supply and other loads in parallel.
    Not sure if that is fast enough to be of great value.  

    If one AP shorts out, you don’t want it taking down others that are off the 
same power supply.  

    From: Josh Luthman 
    Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:07 PM
    To: [email protected] 
    Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

    Meh just replace the card if it's being troublesome.

    Josh Luthman
    Office: 937-552-2340
    Direct: 937-552-2343
    1100 Wayne St
    Suite 1337
    Troy, OH 45373

    On Mar 21, 2016 4:05 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]> wrote:

      Well, they have their downside.
      A real fuse will be easier to notice when it is blown.
      A poly fuse just cuts the current way down.  
      More of a troubleshooting issue than anything else.  

      But, if a fuse is blown,  then you have to fix the circuit and find a 
replacement fuse.  
      I do have LEDs and by unplugging the short circuit cable the LED should 
come back to full brightness.  

      Just thinking out loud here.  Want to make the right choice.  

      From: Josh Luthman 
      Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:02 PM
      To: [email protected] 
      Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

      Cheaper to run a polyfuse...why bother asking???


      Josh Luthman
      Office: 937-552-2340
      Direct: 937-552-2343
      1100 Wayne St
      Suite 1337
      Troy, OH 45373

      On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 4:01 PM, Chuck McCown <[email protected]> wrote:

        Still leaning toward the polyfuse.  Not a lot of room, fuses and fuse 
holders are more money.  

        From: Bill Prince 
        Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 1:51 PM
        To: [email protected] 
        Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

        Most of ours are now the DIN-mounted double feed that uses the 5x20mm 
glass fuses. However, we also have a few legacy sites that use the automotive 
blade fuses.

        If something new came along, we would use what it uses.

bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>

On 3/21/2016 12:47 PM, Josh Luthman wrote:

          We already stock 5x20mm fuses so keeping with the same form factor 
would be nice.  Anyone else using those same DIN clip fuse holders have the 
same.


          Josh Luthman
          Office: 937-552-2340
          Direct: 937-552-2343
          1100 Wayne St
          Suite 1337
          Troy, OH 45373

          On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Adam Moffett <[email protected]> 
wrote:

            I have no strong opinions sir, but if it's a replaceable fuse I do 
like the automotive blades because every gas station has them.



            On 3/21/2016 2:42 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:

              I am considering adding a fuse to a new version of my rack mount 
POE surge suppressors.

              I know many of you like PTC resettable solid state fuses.  I 
don’t  recall ever designing one in to anything.
              Maybe I did on a phone device years ago, but that would have been 
to satisfy a regulatory agency only.  

              Studying up on them I learn that if you have a 1 amp “hold 
current” the “always trip” current is 2 amps. 
              Not like a fuse, which is pretty well guaranteed to trip at any 
current over the rating if you wait long enough.  

              For a polyfuse, if your load is one amp, you have to have a 
design value of greater than 1 amp hold current.
              But then it takes double that to actually trip..  

              And then there is leakage current required to keep it in the 
tripped condition.  
              It does not totally break the circuit.    

              They are fairly inexpensive compared to glass fuses and fuse 
holders.  
              Could do auto blade fuses too.  

              Not sure I have the room for anything but a polyfuse though.  

              Anyone have strong opinions about this?







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