In all honesty, we won't ever use it. Remote power control per
device/radio via one PacketFlux device or another is what we do everywhere.
I'm sure someone will use it, so don't take my narrow-minded opinion to
heart.
I do have one question about the APC cards. Would it be possible to flip
the RJ45s around so that the tab faces away from the board? That is
probably the only complaint I have with them.
On 3/21/2016 9:36 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
Yes, it is an alternate form factor.
May as well spill the beans.
Something Gino asked for a couple of years ago but never found the
solution until recently.
I have a 24 position rack mount, same size as the 4 position DIN I
sell now.
I am putting a power back plane in it. It will have 4 separate
isolated power buses.
Couldn’t find the power bus connectors I wanted until lately.
Actually they were available but only in bulk. They recently
packaged them so my pick n place machine could put them on the board.
So you can mix 4 different POE voltages in each rack. A/B powering.
Two common point powering connectors in the back. Diode combiner.
You only need one if you only have one source of power.
Mix –48 and +48 and 24 and 12 all in the same rack.
No wires going to each individual GIGE-POE-APC.
The surge suppressor will be the GIGE-POE-PRM
*From:* Jeremy <mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 7:07 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
I am perfectly happy with the GIGE-POE-APC the way it is now. I
haven't lost one in three years. Is this finding a solution to a
problem that doesn't exist?
On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 7:01 PM, Chuck McCown <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
It is also a POE inserter.
*From:* George Skorup <mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 4:40 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
Let a surge suppressor be a surge suppressor. I will handle the
over-current externally (fuses, PacketFlux electronic, etc).
On 3/21/2016 3:37 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
Yeah, I am coming to that conclusion I think.
*From:* Forrest Christian (List Account)
<mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:32 PM
*To:* af <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
You need to look at the curve on the polyfuse. Because the trip
is related to heating which is related to current it will trip
much faster in many circumstances. ... however the trip current
varies widely with ambient temperature as well.
I'm not convinced that you can actually find a polyfuse which
will protect Ethernet magnetics.
On Mar 21, 2016 4:14 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
The poe card would not be the cause, it would be the victim.
The AP or wiring would be the cause.
The polyfuse I am looking at takes 12 seconds to blow. Trying
to protect the power supply and other loads in parallel.
Not sure if that is fast enough to be of great value.
If one AP shorts out, you don’t want it taking down others
that are off the same power supply.
*From:* Josh Luthman <mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:07 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
Meh just replace the card if it's being troublesome.
Josh Luthman
Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
1100 Wayne St
Suite 1337
Troy, OH 45373
On Mar 21, 2016 4:05 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Well, they have their downside.
A real fuse will be easier to notice when it is blown.
A poly fuse just cuts the current way down.
More of a troubleshooting issue than anything else.
But, if a fuse is blown, then you have to fix the
circuit and find a replacement fuse.
I do have LEDs and by unplugging the short circuit cable
the LED should come back to full brightness.
Just thinking out loud here. Want to make the right choice.
*From:* Josh Luthman <mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:02 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
Cheaper to run a polyfuse...why bother asking???
Josh Luthman
Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
1100 Wayne St
Suite 1337
Troy, OH 45373
On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 4:01 PM, Chuck McCown
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Still leaning toward the polyfuse. Not a lot of room,
fuses and fuse holders are more money.
*From:* Bill Prince <mailto:[email protected]>
*Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 1:51 PM
*To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
*Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
Most of ours are now the DIN-mounted double feed that
uses the 5x20mm glass fuses. However, we also have a
few legacy sites that use the automotive blade fuses.
If something new came along, we would use what it uses.
bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>
On 3/21/2016 12:47 PM, Josh Luthman wrote:
We already stock 5x20mm fuses so keeping with the
same form factor would be nice. Anyone else using
those same DIN clip fuse holders have the same.
Josh Luthman
Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
1100 Wayne St
Suite 1337
Troy, OH 45373
On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Adam Moffett
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
wrote:
I have no strong opinions sir, but if it's a
replaceable fuse I do like the automotive blades
because every gas station has them.
On 3/21/2016 2:42 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
I am considering adding a fuse to a new version
of my rack mount POE surge suppressors.
I know many of you like PTC resettable solid
state fuses. I don’t recall ever designing
one in to anything.
Maybe I did on a phone device years ago, but
that would have been to satisfy a regulatory
agency only.
Studying up on them I learn that if you have a
1 amp “hold current” the “always trip” current
is 2 amps.
Not like a fuse, which is pretty well
guaranteed to trip at any current over the
rating if you wait long enough.
For a polyfuse, if your load is one amp, you
have to have a design value of greater than 1
amp hold current.
But then it takes double that to actually trip..
And then there is leakage current required to
keep it in the tripped condition.
It does not totally break the circuit.
They are fairly inexpensive compared to glass
fuses and fuse holders.
Could do auto blade fuses too.
Not sure I have the room for anything but a
polyfuse though.
Anyone have strong opinions about this?
