It is the mixed rail that seems to be the interesting part.  I have been asked 
multiple times.  

From: George Skorup 
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 8:50 PM
To: [email protected] 
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

In all honesty, we won't ever use it. Remote power control per device/radio via 
one PacketFlux device or another is what we do everywhere.

I'm sure someone will use it, so don't take my narrow-minded opinion to heart.

I do have one question about the APC cards. Would it be possible to flip the 
RJ45s around so that the tab faces away from the board? That is probably the 
only complaint I have with them.


On 3/21/2016 9:36 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:

  Yes, it is an alternate form factor.
  May as well spill the beans.  

  Something Gino asked for a couple of years ago but never found the solution 
until recently.

  I have a 24 position rack mount, same size as the 4 position DIN I sell now.
  I am putting a power back plane in it.  It will have 4 separate isolated 
power buses.  

  Couldn’t find the power bus connectors I wanted until lately.  
  Actually they were available but only in bulk.   They recently packaged them 
so my pick n place machine could put them on the board.  

  So you can mix 4 different POE voltages in each rack.  A/B powering.  
  Two common point powering connectors in the back.  Diode combiner.
  You only need one if  you only have one source of power.

  Mix –48 and +48 and 24 and 12 all in the same rack.  
  No wires going to each individual GIGE-POE-APC. 

  The surge suppressor will be the GIGE-POE-PRM

  From: Jeremy 
  Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 7:07 PM
  To: [email protected] 
  Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

  I am perfectly happy with the GIGE-POE-APC the way it is now.  I haven't lost 
one in three years.  Is this finding a solution to a problem that doesn't exist?

  On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 7:01 PM, Chuck McCown <[email protected]> wrote:

    It is also a POE inserter.

    From: George Skorup 
    Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 4:40 PM
    To: [email protected] 
    Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

    Let a surge suppressor be a surge suppressor. I will handle the 
over-current externally (fuses, PacketFlux electronic, etc).


    On 3/21/2016 3:37 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:

      Yeah, I am coming to that conclusion I think.  

      From: Forrest Christian (List Account) 
      Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:32 PM
      To: af 
      Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

      You need to look at the curve on the polyfuse.  Because the trip is 
related to heating which is related to current it will trip much faster in many 
circumstances. ...  however the trip current varies widely with ambient 
temperature as well. 

      I'm not convinced that you can actually find a polyfuse which will 
protect Ethernet magnetics. 

      On Mar 21, 2016 4:14 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]> wrote:

        The poe card would not be the cause, it would be the victim.  The AP or 
wiring would be the cause.

        The polyfuse I am looking at takes 12 seconds to blow.  Trying to  
protect the power supply and other loads in parallel.
        Not sure if that is fast enough to be of great value.  

        If one AP shorts out, you don’t want it taking down others that are off 
the same power supply.  

        From: Josh Luthman 
        Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:07 PM
        To: [email protected] 
        Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

        Meh just replace the card if it's being troublesome.

        Josh Luthman
        Office: 937-552-2340
        Direct: 937-552-2343
        1100 Wayne St
        Suite 1337
        Troy, OH 45373

        On Mar 21, 2016 4:05 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]> wrote:

          Well, they have their downside.
          A real fuse will be easier to notice when it is blown.
          A poly fuse just cuts the current way down.  
          More of a troubleshooting issue than anything else.  

          But, if a fuse is blown,  then you have to fix the circuit and find a 
replacement fuse.  
          I do have LEDs and by unplugging the short circuit cable the LED 
should come back to full brightness.  

          Just thinking out loud here.  Want to make the right choice.  

          From: Josh Luthman 
          Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 2:02 PM
          To: [email protected] 
          Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

          Cheaper to run a polyfuse...why bother asking???


          Josh Luthman
          Office: 937-552-2340
          Direct: 937-552-2343
          1100 Wayne St
          Suite 1337
          Troy, OH 45373

          On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 4:01 PM, Chuck McCown <[email protected]> wrote:

            Still leaning toward the polyfuse.  Not a lot of room, fuses and 
fuse holders are more money.  

            From: Bill Prince 
            Sent: Monday, March 21, 2016 1:51 PM
            To: [email protected] 
            Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

            Most of ours are now the DIN-mounted double feed that uses the 
5x20mm glass fuses. However, we also have a few legacy sites that use the 
automotive blade fuses.

            If something new came along, we would use what it uses.

bp
<part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>

On 3/21/2016 12:47 PM, Josh Luthman wrote:

              We already stock 5x20mm fuses so keeping with the same form 
factor would be nice.  Anyone else using those same DIN clip fuse holders have 
the same.


              Josh Luthman
              Office: 937-552-2340
              Direct: 937-552-2343
              1100 Wayne St
              Suite 1337
              Troy, OH 45373

              On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Adam Moffett 
<[email protected]> wrote:

                I have no strong opinions sir, but if it's a replaceable fuse I 
do like the automotive blades because every gas station has them.




                On 3/21/2016 2:42 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:

                  I am considering adding a fuse to a new version of my rack 
mount POE surge suppressors.

                  I know many of you like PTC resettable solid state fuses.  I 
don’t  recall ever designing one in to anything.
                  Maybe I did on a phone device years ago, but that would have 
been to satisfy a regulatory agency only.  

                  Studying up on them I learn that if you have a 1 amp “hold 
current” the “always trip” current is 2 amps. 
                  Not like a fuse, which is pretty well guaranteed to trip at 
any current over the rating if you wait long enough.  

                  For a polyfuse, if your load is one amp, you have to have a 
design value of greater than 1 amp hold current.
                  But then it takes double that to actually trip..  

                  And then there is leakage current required to keep it in the 
tripped condition.  
                  It does not totally break the circuit.    

                  They are fairly inexpensive compared to glass fuses and fuse 
holders.  
                  Could do auto blade fuses too.  

                  Not sure I have the room for anything but a polyfuse though.  

                  Anyone have strong opinions about this?










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