Yep, agreed. Chuck, if you're going to put some kind of current protection device on the GigE-POE-APC card, then I agree with Josh, just make it 5x20mm. We have a brazillion of those in 1, 3 and 5 amp.

On 3/21/2016 8:07 PM, Jeremy wrote:
I am perfectly happy with the GIGE-POE-APC the way it is now. I haven't lost one in three years. Is this finding a solution to a problem that doesn't exist?

On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 7:01 PM, Chuck McCown <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

    It is also a POE inserter.
    *From:* George Skorup <mailto:[email protected]>
    *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 4:40 PM
    *To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
    *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
    Let a surge suppressor be a surge suppressor. I will handle the
    over-current externally (fuses, PacketFlux electronic, etc).

    On 3/21/2016 3:37 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
    Yeah, I am coming to that conclusion I think.
    *From:* Forrest Christian (List Account)
    <mailto:[email protected]>
    *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:32 PM
    *To:* af <mailto:[email protected]>
    *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

    You need to look at the curve on the polyfuse.  Because the trip
    is related to heating which is related to current it will trip
    much faster in many circumstances. ... however the trip current
    varies widely with ambient temperature as well.

    I'm not convinced that you can actually find a polyfuse which
    will protect Ethernet magnetics.

    On Mar 21, 2016 4:14 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]
    <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

The poe card would not be the cause, it would be the victim. The AP or wiring would be the cause. The polyfuse I am looking at takes 12 seconds to blow. Trying to protect the power supply and other loads in parallel.
        Not sure if that is fast enough to be of great value.
        If one AP shorts out, you don’t want it taking down others
        that are off the same power supply.
        *From:* Josh Luthman <mailto:[email protected]>
        *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:07 PM
        *To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
        *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question

        Meh just replace the card if it's being troublesome.

        Josh Luthman
        Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
        Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
        1100 Wayne St
        Suite 1337
        Troy, OH 45373

        On Mar 21, 2016 4:05 PM, "Chuck McCown" <[email protected]
        <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

            Well, they have their downside.
            A real fuse will be easier to notice when it is blown.
            A poly fuse just cuts the current way down.
            More of a troubleshooting issue than anything else.
            But, if a fuse is blown, then you have to fix the circuit
            and find a replacement fuse.
            I do have LEDs and by unplugging the short circuit cable
            the LED should come back to full brightness.
            Just thinking out loud here. Want to make the right choice.
            *From:* Josh Luthman <mailto:[email protected]>
            *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 2:02 PM
            *To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
            *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
            Cheaper to run a polyfuse...why bother asking???
            Josh Luthman
            Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
            Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
            1100 Wayne St
            Suite 1337
            Troy, OH 45373
            On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 4:01 PM, Chuck McCown
            <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

                Still leaning toward the polyfuse. Not a lot of room,
                fuses and fuse holders are more money.
                *From:* Bill Prince <mailto:[email protected]>
                *Sent:* Monday, March 21, 2016 1:51 PM
                *To:* [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
                *Subject:* Re: [AFMUG] Fuse question
                Most of ours are now the DIN-mounted double feed that
                uses the 5x20mm glass fuses. However, we also have a
                few legacy sites that use the automotive blade fuses.

                If something new came along, we would use what it uses.

                bp
                <part15sbs{at}gmail{dot}com>

                On 3/21/2016 12:47 PM, Josh Luthman wrote:
                We already stock 5x20mm fuses so keeping with the
                same form factor would be nice.  Anyone else using
                those same DIN clip fuse holders have the same.
                Josh Luthman
                Office: 937-552-2340 <tel:937-552-2340>
                Direct: 937-552-2343 <tel:937-552-2343>
                1100 Wayne St
                Suite 1337
                Troy, OH 45373
                On Mon, Mar 21, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Adam Moffett
                <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
                wrote:

                    I have no strong opinions sir, but if it's a
                    replaceable fuse I do like the automotive blades
                    because every gas station has them.



                    On 3/21/2016 2:42 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
                    I am considering adding a fuse to a new version
                    of my rack mount POE surge suppressors.
                    I know many of you like PTC resettable solid
                    state fuses.  I don’t  recall ever designing
                    one in to anything.
                    Maybe I did on a phone device years ago, but
                    that would have been to satisfy a regulatory
                    agency only.
                    Studying up on them I learn that if you have a
                    1 amp “hold current” the “always trip” current
                    is 2 amps.
                    Not like a fuse, which is pretty well
                    guaranteed to trip at any current over the
                    rating if you wait long enough.
                    For a polyfuse, if your load is one amp, you
                    have to have a design value of greater than 1
                    amp hold current.
                    But then it takes double that to actually trip..
                    And then there is leakage current required to
                    keep it in the tripped condition.
                    It does not totally break the circuit.
                    They are fairly inexpensive compared to glass
                    fuses and fuse holders.
                    Could do auto blade fuses too.
                    Not sure I have the room for anything but a
                    polyfuse though.
                    Anyone have strong opinions about this?





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