Biba -
Getting a decent pedal right after rebuilding all four calipers can be
tough.
I usually try to let the car sit (at least) overnight after filling
with fluid and before bleeding. This seems to help somewhat.
In your case, let the car sit for a day or two and then bleed it again.
With a little use and time the pedal will return to normal.
I think what happens is that when the system is open and empty and
then filled you get microscopic air bubbles that stick to the sides of
lines and/or calipers.
Over time, these air bubbles migrate to the top on their own.
Another little known fact, is that you should let a can of brake fluid
'stand' for 24 hours before pouring into the system for the same reason.
Jeff
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 10, 2009, at 7:04 PM, AlfaCyberSite <[email protected]>
wrote:
I'll start out by saying I sure liked it when the Spider had semi-
frozen brake caliper pistons. It had great pedal. The caliper's are
all rebuilt and it now has three quarters of loose/soft brake pedal
after spending umpteen hours trying to bleed the ungrateful wretch.
I don't suppose there is some special trick to bleeding the brakes
after a compete caliper rebuild is there?
PLEASE, no speed bleeder suggestions. The thought of even a small
leak terrifies me, let alone the thought of spraying brake fluid all
over the engine bay, exterior, and top. If the cars I work on had a
single, non-notched cap on the reservoir, I would then consider it.
That said, I currently have enough grease around each of the bleed
screws for a front hub rebuild. Yes, there is a new MC.
I'm mostly talking to myself since I won't use a speed bleeder but
will now pull out the MightyVac. As I said in the past, this to me
makes sense to pull the fluid through. Too bad they're not better
made. But worse, you always have bubbles.
Whining over (maybe) but I want to thank all of the tips regarding
the caliper rebuilds. I'm not trying to now come across as the
expert, but I still feel it makes sense to pop out both pistons
before removing the caliper, it they're really stuck. As it is, by
using the suggested C-clamp to then pull one back far enough to get
the other piston out with air pressure it then later takes a fair
amount of blowing/pressure to remove this piston as the rebuilt one
is held in by the C-clamp. I also installed a cut/crimped hard-line
fitting on the caliper and blew through the bleed screw hole. I'll
also add that I began using my (CSI) face shield after one C-clamp
flew by my head when the stuck piston came free.
I'm pretty sure I got the seals in fine. After the pistons were
pulled in past the seal, they then pulled the rest of the way in
smoothly using a C-clamp. They certainly do like to cock before
then. That said, on the final piston rebuild the piston would only
move with a great deal of pressure after going past the seal. I
removed it and there was some schmootz (sp?) under the seal/ring. I
cleaned it out and it then went in smoothly.
I never have claimed to be the fastest restorer/rebuilder, but it
any of you feel you 'want' to rebuild your four calipers for your
one and only daily driver and you still have a job, I suggest you
start on a Friday night.
In my case, this is a client car. Tell me, how would you feel about
receiving your somewhat expensive restored Alfa and all looks and
works well except...the brake pedal is a 'bit soft'?
I was afraid you'd say that.
Biba
Irwindale, CA USA
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