And on the
cameras--Daryl,--P.S. The cheap cameras can crank up the sensitivity
which amounts to the same as putting faster film in a "camera", but as
in film, the tradeoff is grain--now called "static." So, to read the
license, one would need to set that down to 100 or a setting comparable
with PlusX--again requiring more light with a fast shutter speed.--EW
Eric Westhagen wrote:
"And for Daryl,---" That was
not the point with the f2.8 which is usaully on cheap point and shoot
cameras. Have you noticed that when such a camera is set on "auto" it
adjusts by slowing the shutter when more light is needed. Soon a
person has a time exposure without a tripod---get the idea about the
lens for zipping along on a moving helmet trying to record a license?
You need the guarantee of a 1/1000 of a second or faster with a manual
setting and enough light for the circumstances. In good daylight, your
f2.8 should (might) work. EW
Darryl Jordan wrote:
| Mark;
The Camera Company in Madison has them in stock the last
time I looked in the last week or so.
I thought of getting one to use for Ride the Drive, but
I
was concerned that the extreme fish-eye effect would make my subjects
too small and/or have too low-resolution to enlarge effectively for
publishable stills. However, that won't stop me from wanting one anyway.
Regarding the wide angle effect for recording near
misses,
I think the camera will work well to identify ne'er-do-wells on the
street. The only thing is that camera would have to be going all the
time.
And for Eric, the f2.8 setting is academic as far as
sharpness and depth-of-field because since it is a very very short
focal length lens, the aperture is pretty danged small to begin with so
depth-of-field is sharp at normal picture taking distances. A manual
camera would be fine for single frame snap-shots, but I would prefer a
hands-off movie camera to photograph a problematic driver because is
those situations I would prefer to have both hands on the handle bar
ready to hit the brakes, not the camera.
Darryl
|
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