Try doing a search using the following entry: zircon +"water level"
Here are the operating instructions. Operating Instructions Or, click here for a printable PDF for the WL25, or the WL25 Pro. Table with 2 columns and 13 rows WL25 Components 1. Top Hose 2. Hose Clamp 3. Hose 4. On/Off Switch 5. Sensing Tube 6. Level Line Indicator 7. Power LED 8. Bottom Hose 9. Hose Connector 10. Audio Output 11. Tube-Cleaning Brush WL 25 components WL25 Pro Attachments 1. Mounting Bracket 2. Mounting Screw 3. Garden Hose Filler Nozzle 4. Garden Hose Connector Installing Battery Press battery door release and remove door. Snap 9-V battery onto connector and place inside battery compartment. Replace door and snap shut. Figure 2: Battery Assembling the Water Level Using the hose connector provided, attach one end of the long hose to the lower end of the short hose that passes through the body of the unit. There will also be a short length extending from the top. Move the hose clamps, if necessary, so that one is on the short hose extending from the top and the other clamp is at the free end of the long hose. Figure 3: Positioning the TriScanner Filling with Water Uncoil the hose and unlock the clamps at both ends. Fill a container with about 2 quarts of TAP WATER, not distilled. Minerals, especially salt, are needed in the water for conductivity. Place the open end of the long hose in the water container, making sure the end of the hose stays under water. Siphon to fill. Lock the clamps at each end to keep the water from running out as you set up your work area. To avoid inaccurate readings, always remove large air bubbles in the filled hose before using. Unlock both clamps and shake the hose gently to force the bubbles to the top. Filling with water Using a Garden Hose (Pro model only) Open the top hose clamp and position the WL25 Pro to allow water to exit the top hose. Unscrew the garden hose connector and connect one end of the garden hose to the bottom hose. Connect the 25' clear hose to the other end of the garden hose. Attach the filler nozzle to an outdoor faucet and turn on the water supply. Water will not flow until the filler button is pressed. Open the working end hose clamp. Press the working end of the hose to filler exit. Hold filler button in to allow water to fill the garden hose until water is flowing out the top hose. Continue holding the filler button in until there is no air in the water exiting the top hose for at least 10 seconds. Release the filler button and close the working end hose clamp. Using a garden hose Mounting the Level Mount the level so that the level reference points on the sides are at the desired finished level point. For the Pro model, a mounting bracket and screw are included for attaching unit to a form. The unit fits on the bracket, making height adjustments easier. Figure 6: Locating the edges of the stud You can also mount the level above or below that reference point, measuring up or down from your marks to the desired position. Fasten the unit at both top and bottom to ensure stability. If the unit swings from side to side, your level points will change and give you inaccurate readings. Using the Water Level Attach the electronic unit to the work area, then slide the ON/OFF button to ON. Lower the working end of the hose to just below the level line indicator. Open the clamp on the short top hose. Move the long length of the hose to the desired level position, making sure that the hose is not knotted or kinked and will not be kicked, stepped on, or disturbed. Keep the long end of the hose lower than the electronic unit as you set up. Elevate the end just enough that the water doesn't run out and open the clamp on the working end of the unit. SLOWLY raise the end of the long hose until the continuous tone just starts. Mark on the work surface at the corresponding water level. Note: If you raise the tube too fast and the level point is passed and the intermittent tone sounds, lower the working tube until the tone stops and then SLOWLY raise it again. The longer the working tube, the more time it takes for the water levels to stabilize. No tone sounds--too low Intermittent tone sounds; level point too high. Too high--intermittent beep Continuous tone sounds; level point reached Just right--continuous tone Cleaning and Storing the Water Level In some areas, high mineral content in water may cause a coating to form on the inside of the sensing tube. The WL25's sensing tube can be cleaned easily to ensure accuracy. Do not leave water in tube overnight to reduce mineral buildup. Disconnect the longer length of working hose, connector, and clamps from the unit. Wet the tube-cleaning brush (included in the package) with water. Insert fully into the short sensor tube. Rotate the bristles gently to clean the contacts, remove brush, and then rinse. Reattach the working hose and the level is ready for use. When quitting work for a short time, you can leave the water inside the hose. Lock the clamps at each end of the hose, and carefully coil the hose. To prevent corrosion when not in use, unclamp the hose at both ends and drain the water from the long end of the hose. Store unit with clamps open in a dry place. Cleaning the water level Addtional Hosing is Available Stores that sell this product usually sell or can order additional hosing in 25' lengths. The hose interior diameter is 5/16" and comes with an additional connector to allow you to extend your working length. ----- Original Message ----- From: Rob Monitor To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 23:58 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed. HI, I would like to hear a little more about that xricon audible liquid level I went on google but they didn't have any thing about it that I could see.. THANKS ROB from Minnesota ----- Original Message ----- From: Boyce, Ray To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:24 PM Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed. Hi Dan Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away from the Jack Daniels. If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here . Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting. Keep us posted on it's progress. Ray ________________________________ From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49 To: [email protected] Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed. Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some rather large holes in my backyard for the deck footers. Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the house, sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off the almost right gremlins. We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts relative to the ledger board. We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot long auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down to our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck. After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off the throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn thing. Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through the entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that happened. We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up and clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole. Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At first it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to one side so we could clear the dirt. After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very happy with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something hard. Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard. We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes. I am hoping we are close to that in the other three holes. Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and dirt from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion. And doing it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt. I was one sore puppy on Sunday. I have some nice raw spots on the flesh between my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke. As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck last year. We have been sharing stories about decks for a while. I hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks. I saw him Monday morning. We chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you do to your .. HEY! You drilled your post holes didn't you?" He had the same exact wounds when he did his. We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from blowing off. I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes this afternoon. I can start pouring any time after today. I am weeping slightly as I write the following. Since I planned on 36 inch deep holes, and I now have 54 inch deep holes, I need fifty percent more concrete. Which means hauling a lot more 80 pound bags up all the friggin stairs. Also, I expect that some of our bags of concrete that over-wintered will be useless now. I hope that some of them will be fine and I will possibly dump an extra shovel full of portland cement into each batch if they happen to be a bit lumpy. I am not looking forward to this. Later. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> Tel: (412) 268-9081 ********************************************************************** This message and its attachments may contain legally privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete the e-mail. 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