Thanks for the information..
    ROB from Minnesota
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: NLG 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 6:14 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.


  Try doing a search using the following entry: zircon +"water level"

  Here are the operating instructions.

  Operating Instructions

  Or, click here for a printable PDF for the
  WL25,
  or the
  WL25 Pro.

  Table with 2 columns and 13 rows

  WL25 Components

  1. Top Hose
  2. Hose Clamp
  3. Hose
  4. On/Off Switch
  5. Sensing Tube
  6. Level Line Indicator
  7. Power LED
  8. Bottom Hose
  9. Hose Connector
  10. Audio Output
  11. Tube-Cleaning Brush
  WL 25 components

  WL25 Pro Attachments

  1. Mounting Bracket
  2. Mounting Screw
  3. Garden Hose Filler Nozzle
  4. Garden Hose Connector

  Installing Battery

  Press battery door release and remove door. Snap 9-V battery onto connector 
and place inside battery compartment. Replace door and snap shut.
  Figure 2: Battery

  Assembling the Water Level

  Using the hose connector provided, attach one end of the long hose to the 
lower end of the short hose that passes through the body of the unit. There will
  also be a short length extending from the top. Move the hose clamps, if 
necessary, so that one is on the short hose extending from the top and the other
  clamp is at the free end of the long hose.
  Figure 3: Positioning the TriScanner

  Filling with Water

  Uncoil the hose and unlock the clamps at both ends. Fill a container with 
about 2 quarts of TAP WATER, not distilled. Minerals, especially salt, are 
needed
  in the water for conductivity. Place the open end of the long hose in the 
water container, making sure the end of the hose stays under water. Siphon to
  fill.

  Lock the clamps at each end to keep the water from running out as you set up 
your work area. To avoid inaccurate readings, always remove large air bubbles
  in the filled hose before using. Unlock both clamps and shake the hose gently 
to force the bubbles to the top.
  Filling with water

  Using a Garden Hose
  (Pro model only)

  Open the top hose clamp and position the WL25 Pro to allow water to exit the 
top hose. Unscrew the garden hose connector and connect one end of the garden
  hose to the bottom hose. Connect the 25' clear hose to the other end of the 
garden hose. Attach the filler nozzle to an outdoor faucet and turn on the
  water supply. Water will not flow until the filler button is pressed. Open 
the working end hose clamp. Press the working end of the hose to filler exit.
  Hold filler button in to allow water to fill the garden hose until water is 
flowing out the top hose. Continue holding the filler button in until there
  is no air in the water exiting the top hose for at least
  10 seconds. Release the filler button and close the working end hose clamp.
  Using a garden hose

  Mounting the Level

  Mount the level so that the level reference points on the sides are at the 
desired finished level point. For the Pro model, a mounting bracket and screw
  are included for attaching unit to a form. The unit fits on the bracket, 
making height adjustments easier.
  Figure 6: Locating the edges of the stud

  You can also mount the level above or below that reference point, measuring 
up or down from your marks to the desired position. Fasten the unit at both
  top and bottom to ensure stability. If the unit swings from side to side, 
your level points will change and give you inaccurate readings.

  Using the Water Level

  Attach the electronic unit to the work area, then slide the ON/OFF button to 
ON. Lower the working end of the hose to just below the level line indicator.
  Open the clamp on the short top hose. Move the long length of the hose to the 
desired level position, making sure that the hose is not knotted or kinked
  and will not be kicked, stepped on, or disturbed. Keep the long end of the 
hose lower than the electronic unit as you set up.
  Elevate the end just enough that the water doesn't run out and open the clamp 
on the working end of the unit. SLOWLY raise the end of the long hose until
  the continuous tone just starts. Mark on the work surface at the 
corresponding water level.

  Note: If you raise the tube too fast and the level point is passed and the 
intermittent tone sounds, lower the working tube until the tone stops and then
  SLOWLY raise it again. The longer the working tube, the more time it takes 
for the water levels to stabilize.
  No tone sounds--too low

  Intermittent tone sounds; level point too high.
  Too high--intermittent beep

  Continuous tone sounds; level point reached
  Just right--continuous tone

  Cleaning and Storing the Water Level

  In some areas, high mineral content in water may cause a coating to form on 
the inside of the sensing tube. The WL25's sensing tube can be cleaned easily
  to ensure accuracy. Do not leave water in tube overnight to reduce mineral 
buildup. Disconnect the longer length of working hose, connector, and clamps
  from the unit. Wet the tube-cleaning brush (included in the package) with 
water. Insert fully into the short sensor tube. Rotate the bristles gently to
  clean the contacts, remove brush, and then rinse. Reattach the working hose 
and the level is ready for use.

  When quitting work for a short time, you can leave the water inside the hose. 
Lock the clamps at each end of the hose, and carefully coil the hose. To prevent
  corrosion when not in use, unclamp the hose at both ends and drain the water 
from the long end of the hose. Store unit with clamps open in a dry place.
  Cleaning the water level

  Addtional Hosing is Available

  Stores that sell this product usually sell or can order additional hosing in 
25' lengths. The hose interior diameter is 5/16" and comes with an additional
  connector to allow you to extend your working length. 

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rob Monitor 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 23:58
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  HI, I would like to hear a little more about that xricon audible liquid level 
I went on google but they didn't have any thing about it that I could see..
  THANKS ROB from Minnesota 
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Boyce, Ray 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 4:24 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Hi Dan

  Gee it's fun doing home renovations, I am glad Teresa has got you away
  from the Jack Daniels.
  If you had gone down any deeper you might have come out over here .
  Anyhow I am pleased to see the deck finally starting.
  Keep us posted on it's progress.
  Ray

  ________________________________

  From: [email protected]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2007 03:49
  To: [email protected]
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] The holes have been holed.

  Well, on Saturday, Teresa's brother came down to help me bore some
  rather 
  large holes in my backyard for the deck footers.

  Teresa and I had already put up all the string lines, leveled them, 
  squared them, made sure they were parallel and perpendicular to the
  house, 
  sprinkled magic powder and danced around them in an effort to ward off
  the 
  almost right gremlins.

  We got up early on Saturday and were out the door to Home Depot by 7:00 
  AM. I picked up a Xircon audible liquid level. This is a set of tubes 
  that you connect to either end of a garden hose. Then you fill the hose 
  with water. When the water in both tubes is at the same level you hear a

  steady tone. Great for eventually marking the height of the posts 
  relative to the ledger board.

  We went to the rental desk and got us a 12 inch diameter, three foot
  long 
  auger, the eighteen inch long extention bar, and the engine to drive the

  whole thing. Then we found we couldn't get it into the car. So we 
  brought it back in and called Teresa's brother who was on his way down
  to 
  our house. He picked up the gear and was able to get it into his truck.

  After lugging the damn thing up the infamous four flights of stairs and 
  back to the house, we took a quick break. We then assembled the rig and 
  started it up for a test. We could not keep the thing running. It's idle

  was set so low, it would immediately stall when you took your hand off
  the 
  throttle. We messed with the choke. We messed with the idle. We checked 
  the fuel filter. We checked the oil. We sent Teresa out to purchase a 
  new spark plug. No joy. So Tommy and I got to work despite the damn 
  thing.

  Tom is a big guy, I am not. I gave him the throttle side, but that left 
  me with pull starting the damn thing, probably 50 or 60 times through
  the 
  entire process. It was very very hard work. However, it was a lot easier

  than I expected. I fully expected to be thrown around, have my shoulders

  wrenched, and possibly get a knee or ankle smashed. Nothing like that 
  happened.

  We would drill down six or eight or ten inches, then pull the auger up
  and 
  clear the dirt from the bit. Of course, the engine would stall and I 
  would have to restart it after we lowered it back in the hole.

  Now, the bit weighed about 40+ pounds. The engine about 50+ pounds. and 
  an auger full of dirt weighed, well, it weighed a hell of a lot. At
  first 
  it wasn't too bad. As we got deeper, it became harder to haul the damn 
  thing up from ground level to high enough to clear the hole and off to
  one 
  side so we could clear the dirt.

  After drilling all the holes down to three feet, Tommy was not very
  happy 
  with the conditions of the bottoms of the holes. We were still in 
  relatively loose, soft dirt and gravel. He convinced me to put the 
  eighteen inch extension bar on and drill until we hit clay or something 
  hard. Well, I now have five four and a half foot deep holes in the yard.

  We got down to clay or sand stone in two out of the five holes. I am 
  hoping we are close to that in the other three holes.

  Now, imagine hauling a hundred and fifty pounds of auger, engine, and
  dirt 
  from ground level up to your shoulders in a nice smooth motion. And
  doing 
  it over and over until all the holes were cleared of loose dirt. I was 
  one sore puppy on Sunday. I have some nice raw spots on the flesh
  between 
  my thumb and forefinger from blisters that broke.

  As an aside, a guy I see in the gym locker room regularly, put in a deck

  last year. We have been sharing stories about decks for a while. I 
  hadn't seen him for a couple of weeks. I saw him Monday morning. We 
  chatted for a bit, then he saw my hands and said "What the hell did you
  do 
  to your .. HEY! You drilled your post holes didn't you?" He had the 
  same exact wounds when he did his.

  We covered the holes with plastic and lumber to keep the plastic from 
  blowing off. I called the inspector today and he will inspect my holes 
  this afternoon. I can start pouring any time after today.

  I am weeping slightly as I write the following. Since I planned on 36 
  inch deep holes, and I now have 54 inch deep holes, I need fifty percent

  more concrete. Which means hauling a lot more 80 pound bags up all the 
  friggin stairs.

  Also, I expect that some of our bags of concrete that over-wintered will

  be useless now. I hope that some of them will be fine and I will
  possibly 
  dump an extra shovel full of portland cement into each batch if they 
  happen to be a bit lumpy.

  I am not looking forward to this.

  Later.

  -- 
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu> 
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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