Incredibly helpful, Dale, thanks. I like the urethane idea for the edges. I really don't want to try and adhere the trim, the edges are all curved and I just know that'll be a nightmare.
I'll probably use one of those sponge sandpaper blocks to smooth out the edges of the hole after sawing it, and now that you suggest the urethane, I may use that on the insides of that hole until I can find a suitable plastic flange to insert in there. My old desk had one that rested flush in the desktop and if you slid the plastic casing open you could put the cords through or if you didn't have cords, just close it. If I can't find one at Office Depot or OfficeMax, I may look into ordering one from O'Sullivan, who made my old desk. But even if I were to leave the hole as-is, the urethane would probably finish it off just fine. Thanks. Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Leavens To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 12:09 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Anybody have experience w/this grade plywood? He should be able to sell you edge trim Formica that matches the top. This is the usual way and you apply it with contact cement then trim it flush to the top. Non-water soluble finishes won't swell the particle board though and another option is a little oil based paint, I now prefer Melamine paint, it is a little expensive though. You can probably also buy a small container of some polyurethane finish but again be sure it is oil based. Takes a little longer to cure and stinks more but protects well particularly against moisture and because it isn't water based it doesn't swell the sawdust board. If you mark the centre of the hole and use a hole saw in a drill it should go well. Start on the good side so the pilot drill doesn't split through the good surface and once a little way into the counter material go to the other side, centre the pilot in the original hole and drill until the cuts meet. This will keep a nice clean entry hole on the finished side. I like to just touch the finished edge of the laminate with a bit of sand paper or a file to knock off the sharpness. Hope this is helpful. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. ----- Original Message ----- From: Chanting Monks To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 11:15 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Anybody have experience w/this grade plywood? Thanks, Dale, much appreciated. I was surprised at the price myself. I was actually thinking about using a good door for my desktop, but the kitchen countertop was only $60 for a 6 foot wide surface, which should fit perfectly into the room I use for my office. I'll probably wind up keeping the bases very simple, w/out dados or biscuits, but just got a new drill guide for predrilling all my holes and my dowel holes for supporting the shelves (I prefer dowels to those little stereo cabinet shelf pins they sell). I'm slightly concerned about having to use my hole saw through the rear of the countertop, though. I don't want to shred the formica edges and rip up the particle board. I've drilled formica and similar before, using masking tape over the spot to be drilled, but usually with much smaller holes (half inch). To have enough room to squirrel my cords through, I need a good two inch diameter hole unless I come up with another option. I hate having a zillion wires hanging everywhere. One other question for anybody--the top and front of the countertop is a thin formica. The sides, since this is designed to go into a kitchen and butt up against two other countertops, is exposed particleboard. Any thoughts about some sort of finish that would keep those edges from getting ragged? There is a spray plastic that the guy at Home Depot suggested, but he had never used it before, and I'm wary of using anything liquid on the particle board. Any suggestions? Best, Joe Monks Every day you haven't written is a day you've written off... Chanting Monks Press http://www.chantingmonks.com Sight Unseen Pictures http://www.sightunseenpictures.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Dale Leavens To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 10:07 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Anybody have experience w/this grade plywood? 3/4 cabinet grade plywood is about ideal for the job. It doesn't hold screws into the edge wonderfully well but there isn't a plywood that does and if you pre-drill so the screw doesn't split the plies apart and the really anal would and all of us should dip the screws in wood glue, they will hold really well. If you have the equipment to cut dados for shelves and form rabbets for corner joints or can instal biscuits or use some of those very fancy "knock-down" hardware fasteners so much the better. I have made a lot of desks and shelves with 3/4ths plywood and little of it as good as cabinet grade. The price sounds really good too compared with what they make me pay and they manufacture the stuff not 2,000 yards from my front door. Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada [EMAIL PROTECTED] Skype DaleLeavens Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat. ----- Original Message ----- From: Chanting Monks To: [email protected] Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:55 PM Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Anybody have experience w/this grade plywood? Hi folks, I'm making myself a new desk, using a kitchen countertop that I came across at Home Depot that seems pretty sturdy (formica covering particleboard). I want to use for my hutch and cabinet bases a 3/4 inch cabinet grade plywood. Home Depot has it for $25.88 per 4 foot by 8 foot sheet, and it feels pretty good, finished both sides, and two sheets would give me ample wood for both the hutch and right and left base. Anybody use this kind of wood before? I'm not planning on putting in drawers or doors to close it in, all I really need is to box it for two shelves for each base. Can't imagine the shelves bearing any more than ten, maybe twelve pounds, tops. Looks are not a concern. heck, if I could have found a green countertop with yellow polka dots and pink plaid swirls that would save me another ten bucks, I'd go for it. :) TIA, Joe [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
