And if you are a serious, card carrying, hard core cheep-skate you can use
ATF. A quart bottle will probably last a lifetime.

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 3:43 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] oils


Usually thread cutting oil is designed to be used on a machine that spins
the tap or dye.  That will get considerably hotter than cutting threads by
hand.  

Bar oil for a chain saw is very thick so it can cling to the bar and chain.
I wouldn't recommend it for thread cutting either because clean up will be a
pain.  

Save your money and use WD40.  It has lubricating properties, is light
weight like you need and it will help to float the chips out easier.  A good
dousing before you start and a couple good sprays during the run and that's
all you need.  Pick you up a couple cans of Brake Cleaner at that auto parts
store and you can use that to clean up with when you're finished and you'll
be a happy camper.  That's assuming you don't have to buy the tools to cut
threads with...


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Shane Hecker 
  To: [email protected] 
  Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 10:21 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] oils


  I know that some posts about different types of oil, in particular motor 
  oil, have been posted.
  My question is what's the difference between an oil that says it's for 
  thread cutting and an oil, say for a chain saw blade and bar? I ask
because 
  thread cutting oil is not readily available where I'm at (or at least I 
  don't think it is). I did see some at 1 place, but they wanted $60 or so
for 
  a gallon. I don't want to pay that much, so I thought oil for a chain saw 
  blade and bar would work as a substitute, plus it's $7 or so for a gallon
at 
  OReilly Auto Parts.

  Shane 



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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