Wow, that sounds great. I have never used a router, but I do have a little kit deal that will let me turn my Roto-tool into a plunge router. Now is this a good router option? Can't say, I just haven't gotten around to using it in this manner. Guess I still want to learn how to do it, but just need to get a little free time to play and realizing I have no clue how to use the unit or any router for that matter.
On Jul 7, 2008, at 9:42 PM, Max Robinson wrote: > For inside corners a but joint if done properly is indistinguishable > from a > mitered joint. If the board is just flat and square the mating piece > is > just cut off square. One of the pieces goes up against the wall and > the > other buts up against it. If the base board has some shape other than > square you have to make a cutout on the end of the but end that > matches the > profile of the piece that goes up against the wall. I recently did > this > using a router with a collar. I cut a very short piece of the board, > about > half an inch, and tacked it to the back of the end of the work piece > with a > couple of brads. This end will be the waste piece when you are > finished so > it doesn't make any difference if you damage it. You want the cut > off end > to be a mirror image of the front of the molding so when it is > butted up > against it, it will look right. Then I tacked another piece further > back > from the end to give support to the router base. Then I routed > through the > piece using the front of the short piece as a guide. The cut off end > turned > out to be an exact mirror image of the front. This kind of cut is a > bit > indefinite so you need to have something on the other end that you can > adjust such as an outside corner with a miter that you can cut long > and make > small adjustments. Oh, yes, of course. If you had two adjacent inside > corners to do you could cut the other end off square and repeat the > above > for the piece that would but up against it. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:57 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > Ok, > > > > This is to measure the outside face of the trim. > > > > Because you are cutting two outside corners you need the length of > the > > wall plus twice the thickness of the trim. If this is a 7 foot > wall and > > the trim is 3/4ths thick you need a piece 7 feet, one and a half > inches > > long from tip to tip. > > > > The other way you might measure it is to put the two mating pieces > at each > > end into place then measure from the outside of one to the outside > of the > > other. > > > > Finally double check that the face you want is in the correct > orientation, > > I have cut the opposite angle to the one I wanted by losing the > > orientation of the board. > > > > The miter saw if you have one is the correct choice, take care to > clear > > any dust or debris from the table before placing your board, a small > > amount can alter the angle quit a bit. > > > > Coping a cut is where you cut the end of a board the shape of the > profile > > of the board you are mating with. This has no meaning if the > boards are > > flat and square but often there are shapes to the face. The shape > can be > > scribed however this does not work well for the blind, instead, > and the > > way many craftsmen do it is to cut a 45 degree on the face of the > trim. > > the point where the angle meets the face gives you a line you can > easily > > feel. > > > > A coping saw is a fine thin bladed saw on a frame which permits a > tight > > turn. Always buy extra blades, they are easily broken. > > > > You cut the mitered end off the board by following the point where > the > > angle meets the flat face. The best way is to tilt the saw a > little toward > > the rear of the board so that you are under cutting the end just a > little > > so that a fairly sharp fine edge meets the face of the mating > trim. This > > assures an absolutely tight joint.This is for inside corners. > > > > Hope this answers who ever was asking about coping. > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Scott Howell > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 8:36 AM > > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > > > > Owch, your killing me my friend. Ok, let me explain a bit more. This > > room currently has no baseboards at all, they were all pulled and > > stupid me tossed them out or I could have used them as a template. > So, > > what I'm doing is measuring with a ruler on the length of this piece > > of wall. This wall is basically what separates two stairwells. So, > the > > length from corner to corner is 6 and 3/4 inches. In this case, > these > > are two outside corners. So, if this were a simple straight cut, I'd > > measure on the saw the length and just cut. However, because I > want a > > 45-degree angle, it would seem that you'd nearly have to include > some > > length for that angle so it juts out far enough to mate up with the > > other pieces at either end that are also cut at a 45-degree angle. I > > agree you have to take into consideration the width of the blade > etc. > > I imagine and not being a math wiz at all, the simple tilting of the > > blade from a 0 position to a 45-degree position would mean you'd > have > > to add on some extra in order to compensate for the angled cut or > am I > > just full of crap and have no clue what I'm talking about. > > I'm not using my table saw, I don't see this as a job for that, I > > instead am using my miter saw. Additionally, are you saying a coping > > saw might help with the inside corners? Can a blind person > effectively > > use a coping saw? I thought I had seen a post that said it would be > > very difficult for a blind person to use a coping saw. Being as I'm > > not an expert on anything woodworking related, but trying to learn, > > I'm in no position to say one way or the other on coping saws and > > their use. > > So, I'm open to any ideas, but would of course like to make as few > > trips from the basement to the saw work location. > > > > tnx > > > > On Jul 6, 2008, at 7:44 PM, Dale Leavens wrote: > > > > > Where are you mitering to? > > > > > > The usual way to fit baseboards is to cope the inside corners and > > > only miter the outside corners. The next problem is setting the > saw > > > correctly. Sighted people have to worry about parallax, that is, > > > looking straight on at a ruler or the line marked on stock to be > > > cut. We have another problem, the edge of a tape measure or even a > > > story stick has some thickness and the kerf of a saw blade has > some > > > thickness more than the body of the blade. Then, are you measuring > > > to the same side of the blade? Not a silly question but an easy > > > enough error to make and modern carbide blades take out nearly an > > > eight of an inch of material when they cut. Finally, if you are > > > using a talking tape measure you are only accurate to within a > 16th > > > of an inch. add to that you could be measuring on the shy side of > > > the 16th and transferring to the proud side of the 16th and you > > > could be off nearly an eighth. Add that to the mating piece and > you > > > could be off nearly a quarter of an inch. > > > > > > Even professionals though do often sneak up on a cut with power > > > equipment. > > > > > > If measuring inside corner to inside corner then the narrowest > > > dimension over the width of the trim is the correct measure on the > > > long (back) side. If you are using the face then you must subtract > > > twice the thickness of the trim material. Measuring the face > though > > > is very difficult to do accurately because you can't get your > > > measuring device snug into the angle where the tip of the teeth > meet > > > the board. Sighted people look down to the point where the teeth > > > will be just clipping off the pencil line and they will use a very > > > sharp pencil to draw a very thin crisp line. > > > > > > At the other side, because the teeth attack on the outer angle > your > > > measuring device will either be nearly the thickness of the blade > > > away from where the outer edge will shave off the wood or it > will be > > > the thickness of the blade too short, a distance increased by > the 45 > > > degree angle which is the root of the sum of the squares of which > > > the thickness of the blade forms the hypotenuse. > > > > > > Eventually though you do learn to fudge the measure a little to > get > > > you very close. With a good miter saw or well tuned and highly > > > accurate table saw and the material well fixed down it is possible > > > to shave a whisker off of a cut which brings us back to that > > > recently and lengthy discussion of inexpensive table saws. It > > > doesn't take long to spend several hundred dollars on waste > material. > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: Scott Howell > > > To: [email protected] > > > Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 2:35 PM > > > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mitering trim > > > ,Folks, I'm in the process of cutting baseboard and the like to > > > install > > > in the living room after the flooring project. Now for some > reason I > > > just can't seem to get this baseboard cut properly. I have lets > say a > > > measurement of 6 3/4 and I place the baseboard on the miter saw > and I > > > have tried both measuring with the blade at a 0 angle and then > also at > > > the proper 45 degree angle. In both cases it seems that it's > just not > > > coming out right, it comes out to short. So, can someone offer > some > > > tips on mitering trim so when I cut the pieces, I get the 6 3/4 > I need > > > and the ends will stick out enough to mate up with the other 45- > degree > > > angles to cover the corner? If this didn't make sense, please > let me > > > know. > > > I'd like to get this right and not waste a lot of material. > > > > > > tnx > > > > > > Scott Howell > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > > Checked by AVG. > > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.5/1537 - Release Date: > > > 7/6/2008 5:26 AM > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Howell > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG. > > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.6/1538 - Release Date: > 7/7/2008 > > 7:40 AM > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To listen to the show archives go to link > > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > > Or > > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From > Various > > List Members At The Following address: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > > > Visit the archives page at the following address > > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the > following > > address for more information: > > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind > Handy Man > > list just send a blank message to: > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > Scott Howell [EMAIL PROTECTED] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
