Would you be so kind as to tell us how your name is pronounced. Jaws is rendering it my cell.
Regards. Max. K 4 O D S. Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mycell Armington" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:08 PM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards! > Hi Dale, > The temps aren't much warmer here. 30's and 40's. It's just not warming > up enough. Now I do like my snow but all in all, I'm glad that I'm not > snowed in. > > It's not really a strong slope at all very gentle actually, but what I'm > wondering about if this same water accumulation is causing the back up in > my commodes at the same time and the rain is coming down. Some how I think > the high water I think is causing both problems. By the way, what's the > best surface sealant for this kind of project and what's the procedure to > apply it. I'm going to have to pull up the carpet and all that kind of > thing and right now it seems like a miserable project. Is there also any > particular cleaning that I need to do to the floor before I apply the > sealant?. > > Thanks again to all of you for your responses and help. I'll keep you > posted on this situation. > > Warm regards, > > Mycell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dale Leavens > To: [email protected] > Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 10:24 PM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards! > > > Hello Mycell, > > Robert has described one potentially pretty good solution. I would add > that you might extend the drain down hill as far away as you can from the > building if that is an option and dig and install a dry well. These can be > variably sophisticated but mostly you dig a hole and fill it with crushed > rock with a sort of barrel with holes in it like a colander into which the > drain is inserted. You could add a weeping bed I suppose but this should > not be necessary. the holey barrel has a relief float arrangement at the > top to allow water to escape should the well fill beyond capacity, being > down hill from the problem the excess should continue to drain away. > > I wonder though if the problem is of rain driving against the building > and migrating through. Ceramic tile is normally impermeable to water so > except for the grout it seems unlikely to me that the water is rising up > through the tile. After all, one often tiles showers and bathroom floors > to keep the water from draining through to surfaces below and behind the > tiles. > > You say the building is made of concrete block. I once rented office > space in a strip mall with a concrete block wall. When wind drove rain > against that wall a certain amount would migrate through into the cavities > of the block and run down inside collecting at the bottom slowly filling > up the blocks. This hydraulic pressure and osmotic pressure being as the > inside of the building was dry and warm ultimately brought the water > through the block wall mostly ad the bottom of the wall.I have seen this > too in basements where the bottom of the wall leaked water across the > floor and drilling small holes in the bottom of the block drained them > releasing a surprising amount of water. Each compartment, usually three in > a concrete block will collect water. > > Now if the brickwork is a veneer and the water is getting behind it the > problem may be more difficult to solve but if the brick is properly > installed there should be venting at the bottom of the brick wall where it > rests at the base. Every so many bricks should have venting. Look to see > that these are free from blockage, they are there exactly to drain any > moisture which gets behind the bricks and if clear should keep water from > collecting against the cement block and migrating through. > > If the cement block is directly exposed to the outside then scrubbing it > a little to clean it then applying a good quality waterproof paint of > suitable colour on the outside to keep wind from driving rain through the > surface of the blocks and into the cavities should stop it from collecting > in there and making it's way out either through the inside of the block or > at the junction where the block rests on the foundation where it can > wander across the edges of your floor. > > Because we can't really see the walls involved it is hard to know, it > might even be that the upper part is wood cladding and this is not well > enough flashed to carry rain running down the wood from getting in behind > the brick and repairing the flashing might be the solution. > > Hope these ideas are helpful in determining the source and solution to > your water infiltration problems. > > Now that the snow has arrived here in Ernest, Janet and I might be > convinced to come for a visit and personal inspection and maybe even a > little restoration work. <GRIN> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Bob Kennedy > To: [email protected] > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 6:24 AM > Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards! > > Well first we'll all send our appreciation and pray for the best for your > son. > > As for your water problem, you can probably look through the archives and > find a bunch on this topic. We've run it around many times. > > The immediate suggestion would be to pick up a wet dry shop vac while > they'll be on sale this season. I've used them many times in a flooding > situation and the stronger ones will pull the water from carpet and help > in drying it from pulling a vacuum on the carpet itself. > > As for outside, there are lots of places you can start. > > Do you have gutters? Are they clean? Is there a downspout on that corner? > If there is a downspout, make sure it is able to empty without restriction > to the flow. If draining is free flowing, you may want to extend the end > several feet from the house. > > It sounds like the house is built on a concrete pad so you don't have the > problem of cement blocks filling and leaking into the house below ground > level. > > There are various things that can be applied to cement block to water > proof it, but that is only a bandade over the problem. The problem is the > need to drain water away from the house before it can build up and soak > through. > > What you will need to do first is look at the ground itself on the > corners where the water comes into the house. The lay of the land needs to > be higher at the house and then slope away. If the ground is less than > level it will collect water there. > > My first thoughts would be to dig a shallow trench around the outside and > lay drain tile. Drain tile is just 4 inch or larger plastic pipe with > holes about half way around the pipe. The holes need to face up so water > can get in the pipe and be carried away. > > Shallow trench as in 8 to 12 inches. You would make a trench that has a > gentle slope like a quarter inch per foot, fill the bottom with a couple > inches of gravel, lay drain tile on the gravel and then fill the rest of > the trench with gravel so the drain tile is covered. Then you can use the > remaining dirt to cover the gravel and form a slope away from the house > for the water to run off. > > Lots of us have done projects like this and my way is to wrap the drain > tile with a fabric before putting in the ground. The fabric works as a > type of filter keeping dirt and sand from washing into the tile and > clogging it. > > Of course the tile has to continue away from the house for a ways before > emptying out or you'll just move the problem somewhere else along the side > of the house. So you'll also have to decide where the lowest point is, and > put in a T or elbow to run more pipe away from the house. > > Here is an idea to get you started and I'm sure more will follow. Good > luck > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Mycell Armington > To: [email protected] > Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 11:03 PM > Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Help--my floor is leaking upwards! > > Hello All, > I joined this list several months ago and have just been lurking and > reading and learning. A lot of the things I don't know about personally > and I probably will never use, but I thought it would be good just to have > a source to go to when needing home repair questions answered. Well, I > have a problem and I need your counsel, please read this out and lend me > your multitude of counsel. > > First of all I'll try and explain my subject line. I live in a home that > was built in 1962. It was added on to at one end by closing in the car > port-/garage. Well that's another problem for another day. My immediate > problem is when it rains in massive quantities like for 2 or 3 days and I > mean heavy rain 10 inches or more in a 12 to 24 hour time frame the > concrete foundation gets wet and this is only in certain areas of the > house that water soaks up through ceramic tile. It's happened in the same > places 3 times this year and totally saturated my carpets that are on top > of the tiling. The room that this phenomenon is occurring in is my bedroom > and it's only happening in two corners those corners are on the outside of > the house and they are on the same side. The house is made of concrete > block and brick and some wood siding. > > Sorry to belabor the description but the better I describe the better you > may be able to help me. > > I am a single mother of adult children who are scattered over different > parts of the world. My son is a United States Marine and is currently > preparing to go to Iraq so he can't really do anything. > > I've asked a few people and they're saying there may be a sealant that > can be painted on or poured on. Please help because I'm truly tired of > calling for help to move heavy furniture around and pulling up nasty > stinky carpet and padding and then running box fans directly through the > carpet to get it to dry to prevent it from mildew and mold. I had someone > the last time to cut the padding in sections and I ran the padding through > the dryer. I didn't think of that one someone else did. Please, please , > lend me your wisdom, counsel and advice. It took about 30 hours the last > time to finally get things back together. > > Warm regards and much thanks in advance for any workable solutions. > > Mycell Armington in Tallahassee Florida. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1804 - Release Date: > 11/21/2008 6:24 PM > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > ------------------------------------ > > Send any questions regarding list management to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > To listen to the show archives go to link > http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemaster&PAGE_user_op=view_page&PAGE_id=33&MMN_position=47:29 > Or > ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ > > The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. > http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday > > Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various > List Members At The Following address: > http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ > > Visit the archives page at the following address > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > > If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following > address for more information: > http://www.jaws-users.com/ > For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man > list just send a blank message to: > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Groups Links > > > > >
