Yeah, thanks for the tips and actually I've got a proper fan box.   
This one is on a bar that twists so you can slap a wrench on it and  
turn tilll it puts enough pressure to hold and I mean hold so you  
could swing on it. I used one of these in my town house, but there the  
joists ran the way I wanted. In any event your right that fishing  
across will be amazingly difficult, but I have one thing I want to try  
before I give up completely. There is a duct that runs perpendicular  
to the joists, so I might be able to work down to it and over. If not,  
I'm just going to make the necessary holes and patch. My wife is not a  
fan of painting, but tough, once it's done, she'll accept and like the  
results and will paint without much fuss. grin.
This is a good experience actually cause I have a hallway that has no  
light at all and I can't figure out how this came to be. This hall  
area has two stairwells and how anyone could not have a light in that  
area is beyond me. So, we're going to put one  in. The good thing is I  
have power behind a blank plate, so I suspect there could have been a  
light and it was removed for some other reason I can't quite fathom.  
There's nothing like coming behind someone and trying to figure out  
what they were doing.
On Aug 7, 2009, at 10:49 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

> Unfortunately there is no easy fix when retro fitting electrical  
> lines. I've seen some different long drill bits like you have but I  
> don't know the diameter and that will be important since it has to  
> be larger than the 14 gauge you'll need to be running.
>
> One bit of good luck for you cutting the hole next to a joist. code  
> and good sense require you to mount the box either on a joist or to  
> a stud running crossways to the joist. You can't use a plastic box  
> with the wings that pop out behind drywall. At least not if you want  
> to hang a fan on it.
>
> Tell Mrs. my wife complained about the dust too but I think the best  
> idea is to use a hole saw big enough that you can fit your hand  
> through the hole. With a hole saw you can save the cut out, then  
> when you're ready to close up, cut some thin strips of plywood or  
> you can get larger if you have scrap. Cut the wood a couple inches  
> longer than the hole is round. Push the wood into the hole and  
> center it over the opening. Run a drywall screw through the drywall  
> and into each end of the wood. Now you can put a couple screws  
> through the cut out and screw it to the wood behind the opening. A  
> little tip to make this easier is to start a screw in the center.  
> This will come back out but it gives you a handle to hold the wood  
> while you drive the screws in.
>
> I just did this project during the spring. With any luck your hands  
> are smaller than mine and you won't have to use a 4 inch hole saw  
> like I did. Fishing the tape across gets pretty impossible after 2  
> joists because you can't manipulate it after that point. The only  
> simple fix would be to try picking up power on a wall that runs  
> perpendicular to the joists so you could run up through the plates  
> at the top and into the bay where the fan will mount.
>
> The way it is, you might be able to cut a hole between every other  
> joist and see if you can feed the wire through. I stripped the wire  
> back so I could bend a hook in the bear wire and cut off the black  
> and white even with the insulation. That's so I didn't end up with a  
> big knot to try pulling through each hole. The hook is in case I was  
> only close. I had a wire coat hanger I could catch the other hook  
> with and show the way.
>
> When you get the wire run, you can use some joint compound to seal  
> the opening. There are all kinds of "textured" applicators. There  
> are rollers, sponges and things I probably don't even know about  
> now. I hate that kind of texture but it was popular for a while. I  
> had to make those repairs when I had younger kids. Somehow  
> "accidents" kept happening. "Daddy I was picking up the ball bat and  
> it went through the ceiling." Not the hardest repair you'll ever do,  
> especially when you finish running the wire.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Scott Howell
> To: [email protected]
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 8:32 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installing a ceiling fan-the tricky part
>
> All,
>
> I have a minor problem, ok not a problem so much as I'm just trying
> to find an easy way to do something that would be simple if I'd just
> stop trying to make life difficult.
> I cut a hole in the ceiling for the fan box and I should point out
> there is no fan or light etc. so a new install from scratch. I also
> have the added problem of fishing wire from where the switch is to the
> center of the room and of course the joists have the absolute nerve to
> be running perpendicular to the direction I need to go; damn builders
> didn't bother to consult with me before putting the place together,
> but ah well. Ok, so, yeah I could knock a hole every other joist and
> bang a hole in each joist and I only need a hole large enough to fit
> my hand in so I can fish the wire. Now because I'm such a clever
> fool, I wasted my money and got one of those four foot rods with the
> bit on the end, meant for drilling hole. Well first it seemed like a
> fine idea, but controlling that sucker wasn't easy and I'm fairly sure
> I piloted the bit under the duct that had the nerve to be in my way,
> but then I hit something that took the drill out of my hands and smash
> the hell out of my forearm. Now not to be out done by the drill, I
> tried again and got beat up by the drill again, but since I lack the
> good sense to stop, I did punch through to the other side, but I have
> no idea where in hell I ended up. So far my wife hasn't found any
> holes in the bedrooms upstairs and that must mean I made holes
> generally in the right direction. However, because I do lack common
> sense, I didn't realize that trying to pilot the fish tape through the
> holes I made will be damn near impossible. So, I think the holes are
> generally in line with each other, but has anyone any tips on driving
> a fish tape um, well, ahuh blindly through the joists? I'm trying so
> hard to avoid making anymore holes and trying to justify the cost of
> the bit/rod deal. I mean it'll be useful in driving up the wall into
> the whatever it's called up there, but seems I'd have to run the fish
> tape up that way and not through the hole where the fan box will go.
> Of course luck would have it that the hole I made is right against
> the beam and I'm hoping it won't cause me a lot of problems.
> Of course the real hoot to all this is if I end up making holes, I got
> one of those ceilings with the popcorn stuff on it. Well it's more
> like thick, sharp, knuckle-slashing popcorn stuff. So, patching the
> holes and finding that stuff will be interesting, but I still have the
> plug I cut out of the ceiling, so matching it shouldn't be to bad and
> it'll be easier in the end to patch that then if it were all smooth.
> See I'm trying to avoid making the lovely spouse unhappy with
> additional destruction. She's not overly happy with the dust, but she
> understands dust is a way of life in the construction business and
> well I tried taping the shop vac to the drill and that sort of
> worked. :) So, a little less dust. Well hey, any thoughts appreciated.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> 



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