On mine the cause of the switch failure was a short in the connector
inferior to the switch. There is a plastic covered screw connector
below the switch which connects the thicker gauge wire from the outlet
to the thinner gauge wire that is connected to the switch. I spliced
the two different gauged wires together using shrink insulation
replaced the switch  and never had any more trouble with it

On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 8:28 AM, bmacpiper <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Well, it finally happened to me.  Came home from the station
> yesterday, and found my B2 (about 3.5 years old) was cold, and that
> whole circuit in the house was dead.  Found the tripped breaker on my
> panel, reset, and it immediately retripped.  Tried it again just in
> case...  :)
>
> Quickly isolated it to the B2, when I unplugged it the circuit reset
> just fine.
>
> I could smell electrical at the front/top/left of the B2, and sure
> enough, the top wires to the on/off switch are brownish and hard.
> Pulled the switch this morning, and it smells a bit like electrical,
> but still moves fine and is not melted.
>
> I have glanced through the old posts on the topic, but don't know
> whether we reached a consensus on the topic or not?  Replace with a
> high-amp switch from the hardware store?  Or did WLL get a good
> replacement that is rated for the load?
>
> If I use a generic switch, do I just need one that is 15A+, or do I
> need 20A?
>
> It's been a rough month on my espresso consumption...OPV, steam wand,
> switch...good thing I have some Irish breakfast around.
>
> Thanks as always,
> Ben Mc
>
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