Thanks Barry.  Todd had me look for that and I didn't see it--I wonder if they 
eliminated that somewhere along the way?

bmc

On Oct 15, 2010, at 11:22 AM, Barry Luterman wrote:

> On mine the cause of the switch failure was a short in the connector
> inferior to the switch. There is a plastic covered screw connector
> below the switch which connects the thicker gauge wire from the outlet
> to the thinner gauge wire that is connected to the switch. I spliced
> the two different gauged wires together using shrink insulation
> replaced the switch  and never had any more trouble with it
> 
> On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 8:28 AM, bmacpiper <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> Well, it finally happened to me.  Came home from the station
>> yesterday, and found my B2 (about 3.5 years old) was cold, and that
>> whole circuit in the house was dead.  Found the tripped breaker on my
>> panel, reset, and it immediately retripped.  Tried it again just in
>> case...  :)
>> 
>> Quickly isolated it to the B2, when I unplugged it the circuit reset
>> just fine.
>> 
>> I could smell electrical at the front/top/left of the B2, and sure
>> enough, the top wires to the on/off switch are brownish and hard.
>> Pulled the switch this morning, and it smells a bit like electrical,
>> but still moves fine and is not melted.
>> 
>> I have glanced through the old posts on the topic, but don't know
>> whether we reached a consensus on the topic or not?  Replace with a
>> high-amp switch from the hardware store?  Or did WLL get a good
>> replacement that is rated for the load?
>> 
>> If I use a generic switch, do I just need one that is 15A+, or do I
>> need 20A?
>> 
>> It's been a rough month on my espresso consumption...OPV, steam wand,
>> switch...good thing I have some Irish breakfast around.
>> 
>> Thanks as always,
>> Ben Mc
>> 
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