I have a different model, but I am able to use a plier type oil filter wrench 
to hold the boiler (not the boiler itself, but the rim area) and remove the 
element with a large socket while in the unit; best with two people.

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
Len Sherman
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2014 7:04 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: CFGI outlets

 

That is what seems to be happening. Since no one has pointed out anything I 
might be doing incorrectly on initial power up after repair, all signs point to 
the heater coil itself. With an ordinary ohm meter, prior to installation, both 
replacement coils measured infinite resistance (at room temperature) between 
either power tab and the jacket. After removal, post GFCI tripping, they 
measure about 30kOhms. I've now had two out of two new coils fail, so it's hard 
to imagine that WLL isn't getting deluged with problems on these coils. If they 
are not, the only explanation is that the techs doing the repair for other 
forum members are not properly diagnosing the problem and blaming it on 
folklore like "These machine don't like GFCI outlets" or other such nonsense.

 

I have one more coil to try, but I don't hold out much hope of getting more 
than a month out of it. The problem is that even with a free replacement, 
swapping the heater is big job since I have not been able to unscrew the heater 
without first removing the boiler. When this last heater dies, I'm done with 
the machine, which is a shame. The idea of retiring a perfectly good espresso 
machine (especially at the over $1500 cost) because it's not possible to get a 
reliable replacement part is hard to take. But that appears to be the basic 
fact of the matter.

 

 

On Saturday, March 8, 2014 4:44:45 AM UTC-8, bg wrote:

The heater element is a simple part, but it must be well crafted.  It is a tube 
into which is placed a heating coil.  Slight traction is meant to straighten 
the wire and center it in the tube, after which the insulating compound is 
pumped in to fill completely, insulating the coil from the tube itself.  After 
hardening, the tube is rolled into a coil as needed and the assembly completed. 
 If there is any failure of the process of centering the wire or of the 
insulating compound, the coil will fail, either initially or after heating 
cycles.  The unit may test normally when cold, but when heated, the wire may 
move in degraded insulating material to the point that the GFCI will trip, even 
though no direct short is present.when tested cold.  If there is leakage from 
the heating wire to the outer coil on testing, then the insulation failure may 
be more complete, allowing contact or near contact in the cold state.  It would 
seem that the manufacturing process for these heating coils is less than 
perfect given the frequent failures noted in the forum; perhaps Expobar could 
find a higher quality supplier for these parts, or, WLL will continue to supply 
free or cheap replacement.

 

From: [email protected] <javascript:>  [mailto:[email protected] 
<javascript:> ] On Behalf Of Len Sherman
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2014 11:30 PM
To: [email protected] <javascript:> 
Subject: Re: CFGI outlets

 

I know this is a somewhat old thread, but I wonder if these unresolved GFCI 
problems could be related to the problem I've been having. This is still 
ongoing:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/brewtus/CHNJqggTxJY

 

As a general response, THERE IS NO WAY that a properly functioning Brewtus 
should have a problem with GFCI, except maybe if water drips on the electrical 
connections. If the GFCI trips, something is wrong. In my case it seems to be 
directly traceable to the heater. I'm wondering if the units that had GFCI 
problems after getting repaired might have had heaters replaced, and if the 
recent replacement heaters are somehow prone to electrical leakage.

 

 

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