If the ground fault tripped you probably need a new heating element.  Not
an easy thing to do by yourself.
If you want to double check it you can pull the two wires off the bottom if
the boilers and then tape them up with electrical tape.  Then turn on the
machine and see if the ground fault trips.  If it still trips it is
probably not the heating element.

On Sun, Jun 12, 2016 at 8:24 PM, <[email protected]> wrote:

> Todd and everyone,
>
> Thanks for the replies. I'm beginning the troubleshooting process, and
> it's a little strange.
>
> My VOM doesn't have a dedicated continuity setting, so I used the 200Ω
> resistance scale. Although the readings bounced around some, I got
> basically 1.0Ω between both COM and NO, and COM and NC, implying positive
> continuity in both circuits. I'm not sure how to interpret that. With
> positive continuity in both circuits, are they closed or open?
>
> Then I checked the high-limit safety over-heat cutoff. On both boilers,
> the tiny red reset switches have broken off (due, I suppose, to years of
> prolonged heat). One broken red reset was lying on top of the brew boiler.
> The other is gone. I used a very small allen wrench to push down inside the
> conical housing of the steam boiler's high limit switch (which now has a
> tiny open hole). Then I hooked up the Brewtus and turned it on to see if
> the red boiler light (indicating power to the steam boiler) went on. It
> did, and then three seconds later, the safety fault detector in my
> electrical wall outlet tripped. I reset it and tried again. Same result.
>
> I fear that we may be exceeding my pay grade here. I've managed to learn
> how to replace the pump assembly (twice), and I did replace the
> pressurestat in 2012, but I get nervous when dealing with electricity that
> trips my safety breakers. Anyway, this is my progress so far. Any further
> clarifications would be very welcome. Thanks!
>
> --Bill
>
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