Agreed with Herman. The plastic in the switch breaks down over time, that’s 
probably all that’s wrong. May as well order two, they have been at temperature 
for the same amount of time on both boilers!  :)

Not sure on the spring question, sorry. Do you have an exploded view by chance? 
Or maybe can google one by the pump part number?

best,
bmc

> On Feb 15, 2017, at 16:18, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> You could connect those 2 wires on the limit switch together to see if it 
> starts heating but I wouldn't bypass and use it that way. You can unplug it 
> at the wall if you have a problem. WLL has them, usually, and they're not 
> very expensive.
> 
> Herman
> 
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 7:14 PM, wsmckenz <[email protected] 
> <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
> So, I just finished doing a rotary conversion on my old BIII and I think I'm 
> close. I have two problems now.
> 
> 1. I left a 2" spring out of the pump assembly. You know, how you finish the 
> job and then you look around and see one extra part? So I can put it in, 
> except I don't remember whether it goes in the inlet or outlet. I'm guessing 
> outlet. Pressure seems fine without it, but I'm sure I'll need it eventually.
> 2. Since putting the machine back together the brew boiler doesn't heat up. 
> Using an ohmmeter, there seems to be an open connection on the limit switch. 
> I've had to reset it a couple of times before, but this time it doesn't 
> click, just kind of squishes around, and doesn't seem to reset. Do I just 
> need a new one? How dangerous is it to short out the limit switch 
> temporarily, just to see if that is the problem.
> 
> thanks,
> ~Bill
> 
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