Good suggestion. I was also able to get an angled box wrench over the nut,
just by loosening the feet on the pump so I could nudge it a few
millimeters, and that was all it took.

On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 9:27 PM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hmmm. The main springs I can think of are in the group, in the wands, and
> under the water tank. I wonder if it was from under the water tank.
>
> I was able to use a 12-point box end wrench on the locknut (or an open end
> if I was lucky), it was a tight enough fit I was able to break it loose.
> But your solution sounds fine also, just move the pump as needed. Won't
> affect anything.
>
> Best,
> bmc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 15, 2017, at 18:44, wsmckenz <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> OK, thanks to both of you. So I did short it out, just long enough to
> bring the machine up to pressure and pull a shot and try backflushing.
> Everything works great, so I think I will just order a couple of those and
> I should be in business.
>
> Not able to solve the spring mystery, looked at several exploded parts
> diagrams on the web and dont see anything like it. Maybe it's from
> somewhere else.
>
> My next challenge is adjusting pump pressure. I'm getting about 8 bars
> with a blind portfilter, so I guess it needs just a little tightening. I
> can reach the screw by coming in underneath and from the other side with a
> screw driver. But I cannot figure out how to loosen the lock nut. It is too
> close to the main water pipe to get a wrench on it. Can I just detach the
> the pump from the case and move it a bit until I get pressure adjusted and
> then screw it back? Doesn't seem too dangerous, as long as I unplug when
> I'm actually touching things.
>
> Any ideas on how much of a turn is likely to get me from 8 to 9 bars, just
> to speed up the trial and error approach?
>
> thanks,
> ~Bill
>
> On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 6:41:26 PM UTC-6, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> Agreed with Herman. The plastic in the switch breaks down over time,
>> that’s probably all that’s wrong. May as well order two, they have been at
>> temperature for the same amount of time on both boilers!  :)
>>
>> Not sure on the spring question, sorry. Do you have an exploded view by
>> chance? Or maybe can google one by the pump part number?
>>
>> best,
>> bmc
>>
>> On Feb 15, 2017, at 16:18, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> You could connect those 2 wires on the limit switch together to see if it
>> starts heating but I wouldn't bypass and use it that way. You can unplug it
>> at the wall if you have a problem. WLL has them, usually, and they're not
>> very expensive.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>> On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 7:14 PM, wsmckenz <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> So, I just finished doing a rotary conversion on my old BIII and I think
>>> I'm close. I have two problems now.
>>>
>>> 1. I left a 2" spring out of the pump assembly. You know, how you finish
>>> the job and then you look around and see one extra part? So I can put it
>>> in, except I don't remember whether it goes in the inlet or outlet. I'm
>>> guessing outlet. Pressure seems fine without it, but I'm sure I'll need it
>>> eventually.
>>> 2. Since putting the machine back together the brew boiler doesn't heat
>>> up. Using an ohmmeter, there seems to be an open connection on the limit
>>> switch. I've had to reset it a couple of times before, but this time it
>>> doesn't click, just kind of squishes around, and doesn't seem to reset. Do
>>> I just need a new one? How dangerous is it to short out the limit switch
>>> temporarily, just to see if that is the problem.
>>>
>>> thanks,
>>> ~Bill
>>>
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