Hmmm. The main springs I can think of are in the group, in the wands, and under 
the water tank. I wonder if it was from under the water tank.

I was able to use a 12-point box end wrench on the locknut (or an open end if I 
was lucky), it was a tight enough fit I was able to break it loose. But your 
solution sounds fine also, just move the pump as needed. Won't affect anything.

Best,
bmc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 15, 2017, at 18:44, wsmckenz <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> OK, thanks to both of you. So I did short it out, just long enough to bring 
> the machine up to pressure and pull a shot and try backflushing. Everything 
> works great, so I think I will just order a couple of those and I should be 
> in business.
> 
> Not able to solve the spring mystery, looked at several exploded parts 
> diagrams on the web and dont see anything like it. Maybe it's from somewhere 
> else.
> 
> My next challenge is adjusting pump pressure. I'm getting about 8 bars with a 
> blind portfilter, so I guess it needs just a little tightening. I can reach 
> the screw by coming in underneath and from the other side with a screw 
> driver. But I cannot figure out how to loosen the lock nut. It is too close 
> to the main water pipe to get a wrench on it. Can I just detach the the pump 
> from the case and move it a bit until I get pressure adjusted and then screw 
> it back? Doesn't seem too dangerous, as long as I unplug when I'm actually 
> touching things.
> 
> Any ideas on how much of a turn is likely to get me from 8 to 9 bars, just to 
> speed up the trial and error approach?
> 
> thanks,
> ~Bill
> 
>> On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 6:41:26 PM UTC-6, bmacpiper wrote:
>> Agreed with Herman. The plastic in the switch breaks down over time, that’s 
>> probably all that’s wrong. May as well order two, they have been at 
>> temperature for the same amount of time on both boilers!  :)
>> 
>> Not sure on the spring question, sorry. Do you have an exploded view by 
>> chance? Or maybe can google one by the pump part number?
>> 
>> best,
>> bmc
>> 
>>> On Feb 15, 2017, at 16:18, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> You could connect those 2 wires on the limit switch together to see if it 
>>> starts heating but I wouldn't bypass and use it that way. You can unplug it 
>>> at the wall if you have a problem. WLL has them, usually, and they're not 
>>> very expensive.
>>> 
>>> Herman
>>> 
>>>> On Wed, Feb 15, 2017 at 7:14 PM, wsmckenz <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> So, I just finished doing a rotary conversion on my old BIII and I think 
>>>> I'm close. I have two problems now.
>>>> 
>>>> 1. I left a 2" spring out of the pump assembly. You know, how you finish 
>>>> the job and then you look around and see one extra part? So I can put it 
>>>> in, except I don't remember whether it goes in the inlet or outlet. I'm 
>>>> guessing outlet. Pressure seems fine without it, but I'm sure I'll need it 
>>>> eventually.
>>>> 2. Since putting the machine back together the brew boiler doesn't heat 
>>>> up. Using an ohmmeter, there seems to be an open connection on the limit 
>>>> switch. I've had to reset it a couple of times before, but this time it 
>>>> doesn't click, just kind of squishes around, and doesn't seem to reset. Do 
>>>> I just need a new one? How dangerous is it to short out the limit switch 
>>>> temporarily, just to see if that is the problem.
>>>> 
>>>> thanks,
>>>> ~Bill
>>>> 
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