She's alive! In the end bypassing the pstat gave the same results, one click, quick flash of the steam light and no power to the elements. Thanks for the tip though it meant I could ignore that part. My fixing method was the most technical of all, I hit the control box! If I tap the side of it the light on the front switches on and the machine heats up! Steam wand is blocked i think but thats a separate issue...I guess it means that theres a loose connection in the control box. Quite an expensive fix but i am pleased its a known one!
On Tuesday, April 4, 2017 at 5:17:55 PM UTC+1, Rich wrote: > > Hi Mike, thanks so much for this! I will be giving this a go tonight, at > the moment i can only dream of a day when hot water will run through ground > beans, luckily the trusty Gaggia is still working! > > Rich > > On Tuesday, April 4, 2017 at 5:08:40 PM UTC+1, Enders13 wrote: >> >> Rich, >> >> you can bypass the pressure stat, I had to after mine fell apart while >> waiting for a replacement (no I couldn't go without morning cup of Joe!). I >> made a wire with a spade connector both ends, the common wire then is >> connected to either normally closed or normally open. Second pic, 1 >> connects to either 2 or 4. I turned the unit off when swapping out the >> connections then back on when done. You can't leave it connected when >> giving power to the boiler as it will just keep building. The front demand >> light comes on when you activate the switch and pressure should build. Turn >> unit off when you reach 1.2 bar and then swap wires back, turn unit on >> again. >> >> On my brewtus only the top 3 connectors are used, the one near the >> pressure adjuster is not used. >> >> I did do it live once and got a shock so be careful. >> >> >> >> [image: Inline images 1] >> [image: Inline images 2] >> >> On 4 April 2017 at 13:03, Rich <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> So a further update i am still a little stuck, I dont want to bother the >>> WLL guys as I am UK based and cant get the parts through them. I have >>> checked the wiring and it all seems fine. Both boilers are good (as far as >>> i can tell). I replaced the SSR but this didnt make any difference. I am >>> still getting 235ish volts in and nothing out. The light is solid on the >>> SSR indicating the PID is telling it to send power to the elements. I still >>> get the heating/steam light flicking on at the same time as i hear the >>> relay click from the control box. The PID seems to dispay the temp >>> correctly (room temp) and has the little blue dot indicating it is sending >>> a signal to the SSR. Pump also works fine. My last guess is the control box >>> or potentially Pstat. Does anyone know of a way to bypass the Pstat? I am >>> guessing this isnt the broken part but it would be nice if its a cheap >>> part! As a side note it worked once last week, steam light came on and it >>> all started heating up. Are intermittant issues generally associated with >>> the control box? >>> >>> thanks to anyone that can help! >>> >>> Rich >>> >>> ps i bypassed both hilimit switches so unfortunately its not either of >>> these >>> >>> On Monday, March 27, 2017 at 9:58:09 AM UTC+1, Rich wrote: >>>> >>>> Hi All, >>>> >>>> I hope someone can help as i am a little stuck! I think i have >>>> potentially googled everything possible and I think my girlfriend will >>>> leave me if i spend too much more time fiddling with this machine. I >>>> bought >>>> an Office Leva DB Rotary model that had a few issues as it was fairly >>>> cheap! I am not too bad at fixing things in general and I wanted to learn >>>> on the way so thought i would give it a go! >>>> >>>> I thought i found the issue last week as the capacitor was blown on the >>>> circuit board (wahoo 20p fix!), I replaced this and stopped the relay >>>> continuously clicking. I now have the dreaded 'very very occasionally she >>>> fires up' issue. So the problem is; >>>> >>>> When i turn on the machine i get the relay click after a couple of >>>> seconds. >>>> If i turn on the steam boiler at the same time the red LED flashes when >>>> the relay clicks. I think this means the controller is saying yes the >>>> boiler is full (they are) so heat them up. At this point I guess something >>>> is tripping the circuit and there isnt any power going to the heating >>>> element. >>>> I have checked the hilimit switches (and bypassed them) and i think >>>> they are fine. The SSR light remains solid green so I guess that is fine >>>> as >>>> its trying to say heat the boiler. The PID displays the room temp with a >>>> small dot next to it. When i got the machine working the other week it all >>>> seemed to work fine, PID was working etc. Only issue was the vacuum >>>> release >>>> stayed open and was pushing out water (i was going to sort this when i >>>> have >>>> sorted the current issue) >>>> >>>> I hope someone can help, I feel like i have checked all the wires for >>>> contiunity, I have also checked the boilers and all seems fine. Sorry if >>>> this isnt detailed enough, I have a small video I can upload if that helps! >>>> >>>> Many thanks >>>> >>>> Rich >>>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >>> Groups "Brewtus" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >>> an email to [email protected]. >>> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. >>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. >>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Mike >> > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
