Hey Bill, That’s great news about the level sensor. From more of your description I am positive that your issue is the level sensor, or the wiring going to the sensor or the boiler ground. The reason I am so sure of this is based on your follow up description. The level controller inside the brewtus has two separate relays, on that runs the pump, the other that allows the boilers to heat or not. Because of the way the brewtus is wired, neither boiler can heat when the level controller detects low water in the steam boiler. Since that relay is Seperator from the pump relay, if it was a failing relay it would almost certainly only effect the pump, or the heaters. This sounds like the level controller is operating correctly, it is just detecting a false low water signal.
If cleaning the sensor helped temporarily, it may just be time to replace the sensor. That said this does kind of sound like a bad wire issue. It’s possible when you cleaned the sensor you also jostled the wire into the right position. I would recommend checking resistance between the level controller side and the boiler side of both wires. Should be zero or very close to it. If not then just make up a new wire. There’s a chance this could also be bad scale buildup inside the steam boiler. Scale is not electrically conductive, so with enough of it if could be preventing a good connection between the boiler ground and the level sensor. I suppose it’s still possible the level controller is bad, but this feels very unlikely to me. As for the “static relay” they are referring to the solid state relay for the brew boiler. Unless you are having more problems than you’ve described so far, this part will do absolutely nothing for you. The only reason I could guess that they would have recommended that part, is that whoever you spoke with latched onto your comment about the brew boiler temp dropping, but doesn’t understand the brewtus’ wiring diagram well enough to notice that the power source for both boilers is routed through the level controller. On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 1:15:36 AM UTC-4 billherbst wrote: > > Update: We're making progress, but no cigar yet. I removed the level > sensor from the steam boiler and checked it for continuity. It wasn't > consistent across the length of the probe, so I cleaned the probe with a > wire brush, which restored consistent continuity. Put the sensor back in, > and the Brewtus began working as it should, which continued for two days > (five shots). After steaming/frothing some milk today to top up a latte, > the IV-R failed again. The pump started to refill the steam boiler, stopped > after five seconds (good sign), but then started up again and didn't stop. > So, something has failed in the circuitry between the level sensor, the > controller, and the pump. > > A replacement static relay should arrive soon from WLL, along with a small > tub of thermal paste from Amazon. Of course, I don't have a clue if that's > where the problem is, but we'll see... > On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 9:37:18 AM UTC-5 billherbst wrote: > >> Brian and Ira, >> >> I had a long response composed, but let me cut to the chase. I think the >> problem is your #2 suggestion — a funky level sensor or controller relay. I >> went into the kitchen five minutes ago and found what I assume to be the >> steam boiler level sensor (the plastic cover on the connecter is yellow, >> and it's the only single wire connection on top of the steam boiler). I >> traced the wire back to bottom of the main controller mounted to the front >> of the inner case, then pulled the connector off the sensor at the boiler >> and re-connected it. Turned on the main power and steam switches and the >> IV-R came back to life. Worked normally for about four minutes. The brew >> boiler began to heat, got to 198° F, and then the machine conked out again >> (meaning the same symptoms as before — the pump came on and didn't stop, >> and the brew boiler temp reading on the PID immediately began to decline). >> So, the sensor is bad or there's a problem with the controller. Either way, >> the reprieve was short-lived. >> >> WLL advised me to replace the static relay, so yesterday I ordered a new >> one from them — 60 bucks for the part and some thermal paste from Amazon. >> I'm not savvy enough to know if that's related to what you've advised and >> I'm experiencing, so I'll wait to hear what you or Ira (or other savvy >> aficionados here) thinks about it. If the static relay isn't the solution, >> I’m pretty sure I can send it back for a refund or just keep it for a rainy >> day. I'm beginning to consider that my days as a longtime Brewtus user >> might be numbered. A Profitec P300 is starting to look attractive. I know >> that the fantasy of an prosumer espresso machine that doesn't break is just >> that — a fantasy — but I am getting tired of repairs for which I'm >> minimally qualified. >> >> I have no doubt that you guys could fix this in a jiffy. I’m less >> confident about myself… >> >> —Bill >> >> >> >> On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 9:28:50 PM UTC-5 Ira wrote: >> >>> Hello Brian, >>> >>> >>> Friday, April 23, 2021, 6:04:49 PM, you wrote: >>> >>> >>> Alternatively these relays can be repaired. It’s a bit of a specialty >>> thing, and requires practice soldering. I know there’s a few guys on here >>> who mentioned doing it and they may be able to help with that/more info on >>> how to do it. >>> Soldering the relay is easy, without the proper tools, getting the old >>> one out without damaging the board is hard. Now that I have the proper >>> tool, it's not hard at all. >>> >>> -- Ira >>> >> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/3fcde877-b88d-4964-a966-c811847be2e2n%40googlegroups.com.
