Most likely the hot wire and neutral wires that come in for your plug are reversed on the back of hte main power switch. And the heating element has ver tiny crack in it and is using the water as a ground. Therefore there are not controls to break the connection since tne "neutral wire rung directly to the heating element. but since the wires are reversed you have a hot wire going directly to the heating element.
Todd Whole latte Love On Thu, Nov 25, 2021 at 10:51 PM Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> wrote: > On 26/11/21 9:00 am, billherbst wrote: > > Kevin, what you wrote makes perfect sense to me. I'll bet you're right > > that the pressure switch is no longer sensing boiler pressure because > > of scale blockage in the copper pipe. The city water in Columbia is > > ridiculously hard — 255 ppm, according to my cheap little tester. > > Scale was the cause of the problem I had a year ago with the boiler > > refill valve sticking. That's why I asked whether scale could cause > > the problem in my original post. I'll remove the copper pipe that > > connects the pressure switch to the boiler and give it a citric acid > > bath. > > > Sometime ago I downloaded the "Brewtus Compendium" - a PDF file > outlining how a PID controller is added etc etc - by C.S. Lennon. Very > useful document. It doesn't actually reflect the standard wiring on > mine (mine has an SSR controlling the brew boiler, and the diagram does > not show that...); but it is really handy for diagnosis flow chart time! > > The wiring shows the heating elements fed mains and going through the > steam boiler pstat. The other lead on the pstat is the N/O lead and it > then goes to the brew boiler. So if the steam boiler keeps chugging > away it can only be the pstat.. > > The document is available on the brewtus group pages somewhere. I > commend it to everyone! > > Apropos water :) Here, at my house, I use only rainwater. I have a > choice of rainwater or water from my dam and I'm not drinking that! The > rainwater is perfectly 'soft' and scale is simply not an issue for me. > But I regularly de-scale friend and family machines. Citric is your > friend in that endeavour, but one place you might find it tough to get > to is the bottom of the U. For a couple of $$'s you can get a bicycle > brake cable inner. Get a stainless one, carefully 'fluff' the end a > tiny, tiny bit and you have a robust 1.5m or so long device you can push > through pipes to clean them. Fill with citric first, of course, and > then chimney sweep style clean the sucker! That has not let me down > yet, and it even works with thermoblock machines! > > Cheers > > /Kevin > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Brewtus" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To view this discussion on the web visit > https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/956494a2-d120-58b3-9f9b-6c78239ae8bc%40gmail.com > . > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/CA%2BX2q_oLrkLi6LwSF-FDkAtru6%2Bu%2BU6yFLGCNqiOu4Ce9o3dww%40mail.gmail.com.
