I finally got around to perform electrical test on my B2. According to WLL tech 
support, I needed to perform Continuity and Resistance test with a digital 
multimeter on the contacts under the covers on the bottom of the machine or 
unplug the wires and when powered on the fuse would trip.Somehow my multimeter 
shows 1 whether or not I touch the contacts, so I unplugged the wires one 
boiler at a time and neither time the fuse tripped. Any idea what that means? 
Thanks 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2021, at 11:03 AM, triplereef <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> 
> For what it's worth:
> 
> I removed my steam boiler completely and secured it to a rig (so thst i 
> wouldn't crush the side walls) and tried to remove it with my pneumatic 
> impact wrench which is a small 250ft-lb IR using a 1 7/16" socket.  It didn't 
> budge the sealant that WLL had used during the rebuild.
> 
> I didn't want to buy new air tools so i took it to a car shop around the 
> corner; their high-torque wrench got it off in a couple seconds.
> 
> When i reassembled with the new element i used "T plus 2" sealant which is an 
> NSF rated non-hardening pipe sealant rated to withstand 10,000 psi.  I have 
> had that sealant on for about a year with no leaks, no pressure loss.  I 
> think the hardening epoxy sealant just isn't necessary and modern products 
> are much more practical.
> 
>> On Tue, Nov 2, 2021, 10:06 PM Dave B <[email protected]> wrote:
>> happily NO MORE EXPOS FOR SALE !!!
>> 
>>> On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 6:33 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus 
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler 
>>> off the machine and shipping it an option on early B2? Any tips on reaching 
>>> Todd S.?
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 23, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Richard <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Some older Brewtus II were manufactured with epoxy thread sealers. Allow 
>>>> boiler to heat up and the bolt will be easy to remove by hand.
>>>> I had a 2006 Brewtus II and upgraded to PID kit. I could not remove the 
>>>> brew boiler temp probe.
>>>> I had to travel to WLL in Rochester who told me about the the thread 
>>>> sealer. Exopobar did that for about a year.
>>>> WLL were able to heat up the brew boiler and then easily removed the bolt.
>>>> 
>>>> Hint: look at the 2 connectors under the water tank. There are 3 plugs. 
>>>> Swap one of the connectors to the empty plug, turn on the Brewtus II and 
>>>> the boilers will heat up even if water tank is removed.
>>>>> On Friday, October 22, 2021 at 1:41:58 PM UTC-4 KJM wrote:
>>>>>> On 22/10/21 3:49 am, Ira wrote:
>>>>>> Hello 'Andrey,
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Thursday, October 21, 2021, 8:25:12 AM, you wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version  
>>>>>> handle the glue?
>>>>>> You need a big socket and a 1/2" drive impact, the kind you'd use to 
>>>>>> remove lug nuts to take it off in place. I've not had to do it yet so I 
>>>>>> don't know what it entails. Like all things with an impact, be gentle 
>>>>>> replacing it, hand tighten all the way before trying to tighten it. And 
>>>>>> then another some amount, 1/4 turn, 1/2 turn or something like that. 
>>>>>> Maybe someone who knows will pop up with an answer.
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sorry - living 0.5 planets away from the conversation means a 12 hour 
>>>>> delay :)
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I bought an 18V ebay sourced cheap 1/2" impact driver.  It takes Makita 
>>>>> batteries, and claims 520Nm of torque.  It might not do that much, but it 
>>>>> does a LOT.  I bought it for use on my ute (truck).  It has not failed to 
>>>>> undo anything as yet!  It is mildly amusing to see large tools (a 38mm 
>>>>> socket on an impact wrench is not svelte!) being used on what is a 
>>>>> kitchen appliance...
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I should have said I also used a pick tool - like a dental pick - to 
>>>>> chase out the threads in the boiler.  The threadseal they used kind of 
>>>>> balled up into little blobs and removing it seemed wise.  
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> The boilers are not strongly attached to anything - there is no 
>>>>> requirement that they be so, and hence the use of an impact tool.  I used 
>>>>> it to put the new element in too - these tools just spin the socket till 
>>>>> it becomes 'tight' and then start the impact-er-ation.  I'd not usually 
>>>>> do the re-assembly with one, but I couldn't see how to manage to hold the 
>>>>> boiler while conventionally nipping up the new element..  I did pretty 
>>>>> much as Ira says above: run it home till it is fully screwed in and then 
>>>>> about a 1/8th of a turn in impact mode.  Didn't leak.  I kind-of thought 
>>>>> it might but it has not leaked a drop.
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> The only complication I had  is the new boiler elements have flying 
>>>>> leads, the old ones just 2 spade connectors.  But a 38mm socket has tons 
>>>>> of space so the wires were just smooshed into the spare space and the 
>>>>> thing screwed into place.  
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> There is a small hazard though as anyone who has worked inside an Expobar 
>>>>> machine would know: the metal parts are sheared and the edges bite the 
>>>>> unwary.  The circular holes in the frame with the black plastic covers 
>>>>> are a case in point....
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Happy repairing!
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Cheers
>>>>> 
>>>>> /Kevin
>>>>> 
>>>> 
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