I received a self ranging $30 multimeter from Amazon and that shows 15v resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance and zero continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this is the failed brew boiler - is that right? Hopefully I can order the replacement heating element from WLL and impact driver and socket from Amazon. Any tips on getting to the heating element through the hole would be appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 7, 2021, at 7:58 PM, Andrey Sychev <[email protected]> wrote: > > My meter is a $10 brand new one from Amazon. Does anyone know if unplugging > boiler wires and turning on the machine with breaker not tripping indicates a > bad heating element? > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 7:33 PM, Eric Christoffersen <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >> Wow I also think your meter is broke. Sorry. I remember how frustrated I >> was when I discovered that all my grandpas old meters were giving false >> readings. >> >> I now have some auto ranging extechs I got on amazon that's been great. They >> were $25 but just checked and prices are way up. Auto ranging is nice. >> >>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 4:45:58 PM UTC-8 Andre wrote: >>> Thanks Kevin, I suspect my multimeter doesn’t work. I clicked through all >>> Omega setting and only one reads something other than 1 with test leads >>> connected. Continuity also reads 1 with leads connected. See pictures >>> below, does that look right? >>> >>> >>> >>> My b2 is 110v and the circuit breaker is not tripping with boiler leads off >>> the terminals one at a time-WLL support suggested if it doesn’t trip the >>> element is bad. Neither of mine trip the breaker with wires disconnected >>> and machine turned on - does it mean both elements are bad? But machine >>> gets up to temp and work as usual with the exception of water. Also, cloudy >>> water is coming from brew boiler, hot water wand water is perfectly clear. >>> Thanks. >>> >>> WLL test: >>> >>> 6) With the wires unplugged, and NOT touching ANYTHING, return the machine >>> to standing, normal position, return the reservoir, fill it with water, and >>> plug it in. >>> >>> 7) Turn on the machine, and wait to see if the GFCI trips. If it DOES NOT >>> trip, then the element which you unplugged is the bad element. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>>> On Dec 6, 2021, at 6:11 PM, Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>> >>> >>>> On 7/12/21 4:26 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote: >>>>> I finally got around to perform electrical test on my B2. According to >>>>> WLL tech support, I needed to perform Continuity and Resistance test with >>>>> a digital multimeter on the contacts under the covers on the bottom of >>>>> the machine or unplug the wires and when powered on the fuse would >>>>> trip.Somehow my multimeter shows 1 whether or not I touch the contacts, >>>>> so I unplugged the wires one boiler at a time and neither time the fuse >>>>> tripped. Any idea what that means? Thanks >>>> >>>> Caution: retired university academic speaking here :) >>>> >>>> OK - so take the multimeter; switch to ohms (Greek capital >>>> Omega/R/depends-on-the-maker...). Put the two test leads together and the >>>> reading should fall to zero and it might also beep at you. That's a short >>>> circuit/low-resistance. If the meter does not do that there is a problem >>>> with the meter! >>>> >>>> I assume you're 110V, mine is 240V. Both will kill you and it'll be very >>>> unpleasant while it happens - make sure you have the plug visible on the >>>> bench at all times! >>>> >>>> If you disconnect the leads to the heaters, and put one meter probe on one >>>> contact and the other meter probe on the BOILER - you should see no >>>> continuity whatsoever. If you see a resistance that the meter measures at >>>> less than say 1 megOhm then there is a fault with that heater - the >>>> electrical circuit is shorting to the boiler and it will trip a domestic >>>> residual current/ground fault circuit breaker. Assuming that's OK, then >>>> move on to putting the leads on the two terminals. You are now measuring >>>> the resistance of the heating element. It should be low ohms. I don't >>>> know what the 'wattage' of your element is, but it'll say it someplace on >>>> the the machine. The (approx) formula is the resistance is >>>> volts-squared/power. In my case I ought to see 32 ohms for my heater. >>>> Your number will be small... If you see a high value or a zero value the >>>> element is toast. Zero means it is dead short and high means the element >>>> is broken internally and is just passing current via the corrosion present >>>> in the assembly! >>>> >>>> Now, for your testing scenario. You say the breaker was tripping - there >>>> are over current (too much power) breakers and ground fault breakers (and >>>> ones that combine both functions). You need to use the meter to >>>> determine which defect you have (short to the boiler or internal short) >>>> but it does NOT MATTER. The element is toast if: >>>> >>>> 1. You get zero ohms between the two contacts (short internal) >>>> >>>> 2. You get any ohms between the contact and the boiler (short to case) >>>> >>>> 3. You get high ohms between the contacts >>>> >>>> 4. Removing one wire stops the breaker tripping... >>>> >>>> The two heaters (steam and water) are wired so that ONLY the steam boiler >>>> is active initially. So if you remove wires from the brew boiler and >>>> power it up you're only actually testing the steam boiler. I'd guess your >>>> steam boiler has a failed element. The steam works harder than the brew, >>>> so that one will fail first (assuming usual things apply....). >>>> >>>> Hope this helps. Fault finding just needs to be methodical. And going >>>> back to your original issue - cloudy water. I'd put money on fine scale >>>> or the brew boiler element having failed and let go the white insulating >>>> material from within. That fault will show up clearly with a meter - >>>> you'll see continuity to the boiler. >>>> >>>> Cheers >>>> >>>> /Kevin >>>> >>> >>>> -- >>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>> "Brewtus" group. >>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>>> email to [email protected]. >>> >>>> To view this discussion on the web visit >>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/d8e9783f-5dbe-fc91-0b20-8b738a1a184a%40gmail.com. >> >> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >> "Brewtus" group. >> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >> email to [email protected]. >> To view this discussion on the web visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/6bca22d1-47a2-449f-ab50-9209e837442dn%40googlegroups.com. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. 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