Also, with respect to the impact wrench - will cordless 18v or so will do it? Socket is 1 7/16” and the depth doesn’t matter, is that right? Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 12, 2021, at 4:53 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus > <[email protected]> wrote: > > I received a self ranging $30 multimeter from Amazon and that shows 15v > resistance and green continuity on one boiler and zero resistance and zero > continuity on the one closer to the head group. I assume this is the failed > brew boiler - is that right? Hopefully I can order the replacement heating > element from WLL and impact driver and socket from Amazon. Any tips on > getting to the heating element through the hole would be appreciated. > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 7:58 PM, Andrey Sychev <[email protected]> wrote: >>> >> My meter is a $10 brand new one from Amazon. Does anyone know if unplugging >> boiler wires and turning on the machine with breaker not tripping indicates >> a bad heating element? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Dec 7, 2021, at 7:33 PM, Eric Christoffersen <[email protected]> wrote: >>>> >>> Wow I also think your meter is broke. Sorry. I remember how frustrated I >>> was when I discovered that all my grandpas old meters were giving false >>> readings. >>> >>> I now have some auto ranging extechs I got on amazon that's been great. >>> They were $25 but just checked and prices are way up. Auto ranging is nice. >>> >>>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 4:45:58 PM UTC-8 Andre wrote: >>>> Thanks Kevin, I suspect my multimeter doesn’t work. I clicked through all >>>> Omega setting and only one reads something other than 1 with test leads >>>> connected. Continuity also reads 1 with leads connected. See pictures >>>> below, does that look right? >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> My b2 is 110v and the circuit breaker is not tripping with boiler leads >>>> off the terminals one at a time-WLL support suggested if it doesn’t trip >>>> the element is bad. Neither of mine trip the breaker with wires >>>> disconnected and machine turned on - does it mean both elements are bad? >>>> But machine gets up to temp and work as usual with the exception of water. >>>> Also, cloudy water is coming from brew boiler, hot water wand water is >>>> perfectly clear. Thanks. >>>> >>>> WLL test: >>>> >>>> 6) With the wires unplugged, and NOT touching ANYTHING, return the machine >>>> to standing, normal position, return the reservoir, fill it with water, >>>> and plug it in. >>>> >>>> 7) Turn on the machine, and wait to see if the GFCI trips. If it DOES NOT >>>> trip, then the element which you unplugged is the bad element. >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>>> On Dec 6, 2021, at 6:11 PM, Kevin Maciunas <[email protected]> wrote: >>>>>> >>>> >>>>> On 7/12/21 4:26 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote: >>>>>> I finally got around to perform electrical test on my B2. According to >>>>>> WLL tech support, I needed to perform Continuity and Resistance test >>>>>> with a digital multimeter on the contacts under the covers on the bottom >>>>>> of the machine or unplug the wires and when powered on the fuse would >>>>>> trip.Somehow my multimeter shows 1 whether or not I touch the contacts, >>>>>> so I unplugged the wires one boiler at a time and neither time the fuse >>>>>> tripped. Any idea what that means? Thanks >>>>> >>>>> Caution: retired university academic speaking here :) >>>>> >>>>> OK - so take the multimeter; switch to ohms (Greek capital >>>>> Omega/R/depends-on-the-maker...). Put the two test leads together and >>>>> the reading should fall to zero and it might also beep at you. That's a >>>>> short circuit/low-resistance. If the meter does not do that there is a >>>>> problem with the meter! >>>>> >>>>> I assume you're 110V, mine is 240V. Both will kill you and it'll be very >>>>> unpleasant while it happens - make sure you have the plug visible on the >>>>> bench at all times! >>>>> >>>>> If you disconnect the leads to the heaters, and put one meter probe on >>>>> one contact and the other meter probe on the BOILER - you should see no >>>>> continuity whatsoever. If you see a resistance that the meter measures >>>>> at less than say 1 megOhm then there is a fault with that heater - the >>>>> electrical circuit is shorting to the boiler and it will trip a domestic >>>>> residual current/ground fault circuit breaker. Assuming that's OK, then >>>>> move on to putting the leads on the two terminals. You are now measuring >>>>> the resistance of the heating element. It should be low ohms. I don't >>>>> know what the 'wattage' of your element is, but it'll say it someplace on >>>>> the the machine. The (approx) formula is the resistance is >>>>> volts-squared/power. In my case I ought to see 32 ohms for my heater. >>>>> Your number will be small... If you see a high value or a zero value the >>>>> element is toast. Zero means it is dead short and high means the element >>>>> is broken internally and is just passing current via the corrosion >>>>> present in the assembly! >>>>> >>>>> Now, for your testing scenario. You say the breaker was tripping - there >>>>> are over current (too much power) breakers and ground fault breakers (and >>>>> ones that combine both functions). You need to use the meter to >>>>> determine which defect you have (short to the boiler or internal short) >>>>> but it does NOT MATTER. The element is toast if: >>>>> >>>>> 1. You get zero ohms between the two contacts (short internal) >>>>> >>>>> 2. You get any ohms between the contact and the boiler (short to case) >>>>> >>>>> 3. You get high ohms between the contacts >>>>> >>>>> 4. Removing one wire stops the breaker tripping... >>>>> >>>>> The two heaters (steam and water) are wired so that ONLY the steam boiler >>>>> is active initially. So if you remove wires from the brew boiler and >>>>> power it up you're only actually testing the steam boiler. I'd guess >>>>> your steam boiler has a failed element. The steam works harder than the >>>>> brew, so that one will fail first (assuming usual things apply....). >>>>> >>>>> Hope this helps. Fault finding just needs to be methodical. And going >>>>> back to your original issue - cloudy water. I'd put money on fine scale >>>>> or the brew boiler element having failed and let go the white insulating >>>>> material from within. That fault will show up clearly with a meter - >>>>> you'll see continuity to the boiler. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers >>>>> >>>>> /Kevin >>>>> >>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>>>> "Brewtus" group. >>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>>>> email to [email protected]. >>>> >>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit >>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/d8e9783f-5dbe-fc91-0b20-8b738a1a184a%40gmail.com. >>> >>> -- >>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups >>> "Brewtus" group. >>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an >>> email to [email protected]. >>> To view this discussion on the web visit >>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/6bca22d1-47a2-449f-ab50-9209e837442dn%40googlegroups.com. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Brewtus" group. 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