--- In [email protected], "Bru Peckett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Allan Cazaly wrote ... > > <..> > > > 1) Procure an old working electric chip fryer. > > 2) Procure a large paint kettle or similar to fit in the chip fryer. > > 3) Put some water in the bottom of the fryer. > > 4) Fill the paint kettle with the enamel boat paint and heat up the > > paint until it is very hot - DON'T LET IT BOIL - > > 5) Spray the paint hot. > > Bl**dy hell! I wouldn't try this at home :-0
***********I WASN'T AT HOME!*** > > I'm amazed that you didn't at the very least set fire to the whole Heath > Robinson outfit and an outright explosion was very much on the cards! ************* A TOTALLY UNJUSTFIED COMMENT SEEING THAT YOU WERE NOT THERE TO SEE THE ARRANGEMENT *** ************RUBBISH - THE PAINT WAS IN THE WATER THAT WAS HEATED UP. THERE WAS NO EXPOSED FLAMES OR SPARKS EVEN IF SOME OF THE SOLVENT WAS EVAPORATING. I SHOULD HAVE MADE IT CLEAR THAT IT WAS THE WATER THAT WAS VERY HOT GIVING OFF WISPS OF STEAM? AND THE PAINT WAS BEING MONITORED DURING THE HEATING PROCESS, UNTIL IT WAS *RIGHT* *** > > It may be an old coach painters tip but I'd check with the paint > manufacturer first - and I'd be surprised if they approved of heating > the paint to any significant extent and certainly not in a device easily > capable of raising the temperature to *well* above the flash point of > the solvent carrier > > On a cold day, I used to drop tins of signwriters enamel into *warm* > water (bath water temp, no higher) to aid the paint flow and that could > be a good plan for spray enamels too but raising the temperature any > higher than that, whilst it might result in an apparently good finish, > is probably going to create a brittle hard skin, possibly over a film of > paint that never really sets off properly depending on how many microns > thick each coat is. That may be why your finish chips so easily. > > The paint manufactuers data sheets will give the optimum application > temperature and it's a really bad idea to stray outside of that range. > The biggest problem with spray enamels and cellulose based paints, apart > from needing respirator gear (not mentioned I notice - eek!) to apply ************YES I WAS WEARING A MASK AND WAS PROTECTED FROM OVERSPRAY FROM HEAD TO FOOT, ESPECIALLY MY HAIR!*** > 'em, is that the ambient temp needs to be tightly controlled during both > application and drying. Not easy to achieve in your average wet dock. > > The other problem, IMO, is that if you get a spray paint job right the > finish is far too good! That may sound daft but a high gloss coach > finish a la Rolls Royce is the last thing you want on your average > narrowboat 'cos it tends to show up every little imperfection in the > steelwork. ************ FORTUNATELY MY STEELWORK HOLDS UP VERY WELL WITH A HIGH GLOSS FINISH*** THE PURPOSE MADE SHELL WAS A SUPERB JOB*** Personally, I find a well applied brush finish much more > suitable and with a little practice a good hand with a paintbrush can > achieve a very nice finish indeed (it's all in the laying off) > > <..> > ************* WHAT ABOUT THE INSECTS THEN? *** > > I could no do tis, so I hired a road compressor and made up a > > conversion piece from the coarse bayonet road compressor fitting to a > > snap together garage air line fitting. I also put a moisture trap in > > the line and had an air pressure regulater in my iar gun line, nearer > > the boat. This caught almost ALL the moisure created due to > > condensation in the *LONG* road drill airline. This gave me good > > quality air at my disposal. > > You can get, and really should use, proper commercially made adaptors ************** A COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE ADAPTOR IS NOT (AS FAR AS I KNOW) AVAILABLE. THE CONVERSION WAS WITH BRASS FITTING REDUCERS BETWEEN THE BAYONET ROAD DRILL FITTING AND THE SNAP-ON AIR LINE FITTING. I DISAGREE THAT THERE WAS ANY POSSIBLE DANGER. THE ROAD COMPRESSOR WAS REGULATED AT 114PSI. IT WAS THE VOLUME OF AIR AVAILABLE THAT WAS IMPORTANT*** > ... Or better yet hire a suitable spray gun compressor with the correct > fittings. If you do use a site compressor then the air pressure > regulator mentioned by Alan is *absolutely* essential as the output > pressure from a standard site compressor is usually unregulated and you > could blow a line or worse. If you've ever had an air hose suddenly > burst on you, or worse still a metal fitting break (and they do from > time to time) you'll know how dangerous compressed air can be! Made up ************ AIRLINE SPRAYING PRESSURE WAS AROUND 70PSI AS FAR AS I CAN REMEMBER AND FINE TUNED WITH THE GUN ADJUSTMENTS *** > adaptors can be extremely dangerous as the construction worker who lost > an eye a few years ago when such a beast let go would testify (big hoo > ha with HSE over that one, prosecutions threatened all over the place > etc. until it was decided it was his own stupid fault) > > I'm all in favour of the artful bodge (perpetrated many a bodge in my > time, I don't mind admitting!) but there are times when only the proper > gear will suffice and compressed air kit (like gas and leccy) is on of > those times ***********NO ONE WOULD EVEN CONSIDER THE MADE UP FITTING *A BODGE* IN FACT IT WAS VERY PROFFESSIONAL USING CORRECT BRASS AIR LINE FITTINGS!*** > > Bru > REGARDS. ~ALLAN~
