> -----Original Message-----
> From: [email protected]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Allan Cazaly
> Sent: 29 August 2007 22:40
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: [canals-list] Re: NWF - can't go! ******** PAINT
> SPRAYING CONVERSION *********
>
>
> --- In [email protected], "Bru Peckett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Allan Cazaly wrote ...
> >
> > <..>
> >
> > > 1) Procure an old working electric chip fryer.
> > > 2) Procure a large paint kettle or similar to fit in the chip
> fryer.
> > > 3) Put some water in the bottom of the fryer.
> > > 4) Fill the paint kettle with the enamel boat paint and heat up
> the
> > > paint until it is very hot - DON'T LET IT BOIL -
> > > 5) Spray the paint hot.
> >
> > Bl**dy hell! I wouldn't try this at home :-0
>
> ***********I WASN'T AT HOME!***
> >
> > I'm amazed that you didn't at the very least set fire to the whole
> Heath
> > Robinson outfit and an outright explosion was very much on the
> cards!
>
> ************* A TOTALLY UNJUSTFIED COMMENT SEEING THAT YOU WERE NOT
> THERE TO SEE THE ARRANGEMENT ***
>
> ************RUBBISH - THE PAINT WAS IN THE WATER THAT WAS HEATED UP.
> THERE WAS NO EXPOSED FLAMES OR SPARKS EVEN IF SOME OF THE SOLVENT WAS
> EVAPORATING. I SHOULD HAVE MADE IT CLEAR THAT IT WAS THE WATER THAT
> WAS VERY HOT GIVING OFF WISPS OF STEAM? AND THE PAINT WAS BEING
> MONITORED DURING THE HEATING PROCESS, UNTIL IT WAS *RIGHT* ***
> >
> > It may be an old coach painters tip but I'd check with the paint
> > manufacturer first - and I'd be surprised if they approved of
> heating
> > the paint to any significant extent and certainly not in a device
> easily
> > capable of raising the temperature to *well* above the flash point
> of
> > the solvent carrier
> >
> > On a cold day, I used to drop tins of signwriters enamel into *warm*
> > water (bath water temp, no higher) to aid the paint flow and that
> could
> > be a good plan for spray enamels too but raising the temperature any
> > higher than that, whilst it might result in an apparently good
> finish,
> > is probably going to create a brittle hard skin, possibly over a
> film of
> > paint that never really sets off properly depending on how many
> microns
> > thick each coat is. That may be why your finish chips so easily.
> >
> > The paint manufactuers data sheets will give the optimum application
> > temperature and it's a really bad idea to stray outside of that
> range.
> > The biggest problem with spray enamels and cellulose based paints,
> apart
> > from needing respirator gear (not mentioned I notice - eek!) to
> apply
>
> ************YES I WAS WEARING A MASK AND WAS PROTECTED FROM OVERSPRAY
> FROM HEAD TO FOOT, ESPECIALLY MY HAIR!***
>
> > 'em, is that the ambient temp needs to be tightly controlled during
> both
> > application and drying. Not easy to achieve in your average wet
> dock.
> >
> > The other problem, IMO, is that if you get a spray paint job right
> the
> > finish is far too good! That may sound daft but a high gloss coach
> > finish a la Rolls Royce is the last thing you want on your average
> > narrowboat 'cos it tends to show up every little imperfection in the
> > steelwork.
>
> ************ FORTUNATELY MY STEELWORK HOLDS UP VERY WELL WITH A HIGH
> GLOSS FINISH*** THE PURPOSE MADE SHELL WAS A SUPERB JOB***
>
> Personally, I find a well applied brush finish much more
> > suitable and with a little practice a good hand with a paintbrush
> can
> > achieve a very nice finish indeed (it's all in the laying off)
> >
> > <..>
> >
> ************* WHAT ABOUT THE INSECTS THEN? ***
>
> > > I could no do tis, so I hired a road compressor and made up a
> > > conversion piece from the coarse bayonet road compressor fitting
> to a
> > > snap together garage air line fitting. I also put a moisture trap
> in
> > > the line and had an air pressure regulater in my iar gun line,
> nearer
> > > the boat. This caught almost ALL the moisure created due to
> > > condensation in the *LONG* road drill airline. This gave me good
> > > quality air at my disposal.
> >
> > You can get, and really should use, proper commercially made
> adaptors
>
> ************** A COMMERCIALLY AVAILABLE ADAPTOR IS NOT (AS FAR AS I
> KNOW) AVAILABLE. THE CONVERSION WAS WITH BRASS FITTING REDUCERS
> BETWEEN THE BAYONET ROAD DRILL FITTING AND THE SNAP-ON AIR LINE
> FITTING. I DISAGREE THAT THERE WAS ANY POSSIBLE DANGER. THE ROAD
> COMPRESSOR WAS REGULATED AT 114PSI. IT WAS THE VOLUME OF AIR
> AVAILABLE THAT WAS IMPORTANT***
>
> > ... Or better yet hire a suitable spray gun compressor with the
> correct
> > fittings. If you do use a site compressor then the air pressure
> > regulator mentioned by Alan is *absolutely* essential as the output
> > pressure from a standard site compressor is usually unregulated and
> you
> > could blow a line or worse. If you've ever had an air hose suddenly
> > burst on you, or worse still a metal fitting break (and they do from
> > time to time) you'll know how dangerous compressed air can be! Made
> up
>
> ************ AIRLINE SPRAYING PRESSURE WAS AROUND 70PSI AS FAR AS I
> CAN REMEMBER AND FINE TUNED WITH THE GUN ADJUSTMENTS ***
>
> > adaptors can be extremely dangerous as the construction worker who
> lost
> > an eye a few years ago when such a beast let go would testify (big
> hoo
> > ha with HSE over that one, prosecutions threatened all over the
> place
> > etc. until it was decided it was his own stupid fault)
> >
> > I'm all in favour of the artful bodge (perpetrated many a bodge in
> my
> > time, I don't mind admitting!) but there are times when only the
> proper
> > gear will suffice and compressed air kit (like gas and leccy) is on
> of
> > those times
>
> ***********NO ONE WOULD EVEN CONSIDER THE MADE UP FITTING *A BODGE*
> IN FACT IT WAS VERY PROFFESSIONAL USING CORRECT BRASS AIR LINE
> FITTINGS!***
> >
> > Bru
> >
>
> REGARDS. ~ALLAN~
>
>
>
>
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