> > .........what is your attitude if you've done all
> > that and your boat is still thrown about by a passing boat? You
can
> > only moor as well as you can in the circumstances. When you've
driven
> > your 2 ft spikes at the correct angle right in up to the neck,
set
> > the ropes as low as possible on the spike/ground level, set a
spring
> > (in my case a ratchet strap that can be tightened to take up
slack)
> > and you still get thrown about and the spikes pulled out. I'm not
> > convinced that, under those circumstances, the moorer can be
blamed
> > for poor technique unless Adrian is going to suggest that we
cruise
> > on and on and on, stopping every so often to try the ground for
> > hardness with a spike, only to find it's still too soft before
> > cruising on to repeat the exercise ad infinitum.
> > Roger
> >
> >
> >
> Of course there are exceptions some people just don't know how to
drive
> a boat, just as they don't know how to moor it, but these are as
often
> as not boat owners and not hirers. As Mike says most hireboaters
are,
> in my experience, keen to learn if approached in a rational
manner. In
> my experience many boat owners aren't. Yes I have had pins pulled
out
> but, in nearly all cases, I have known that the mooring was far
from
> ideal and was prepared to take the risk as it was handy for the
> facilities I wanted.
>
> One thing many people forget, and I include myself in this, is that
the
> profile of the cut makes a big difference to the performance of
both the
> moored and moving boat. Moving the mooring a few yards (metres) can
make
> a real difference to your comfort.
>
> Paul
>
And another thing many people forget is that hire boats don't always
come with multiple mooring pins - more often than not you have to
make do with two.
John
