I've done this job with a friend's Seaward 25. He purchased 2 jackstands. Once the jack stands are in position then lower the Bunk. Paint and repeat for the other side.
If you get the chance to have the boat in the slings. Then get the botom of the keel then. I've heard of people proping boats with all sorts of things to do this but the risk to your life makes it pretty important to use real jack stands. Mark Tamblyn -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 11:10 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: bottom paint question Art, Jeane and I are planning to do a complete hull repaint this spring and are faced with a very similar scenario--we can't imagine having a yard hang our boat for the time it takes to sand the pad spots, apply six or so coats of barrier epoxy, and then apply bottom paint. The fact that bottom paint was applied quickly in the past is obvious from the appearance of the bottom currently: the position of every pad from the PO's cradle is telegraphed by virtue of being almost completely ablated and also by being populated by mussel larvae (or whatever those wispy little eggsacs are). We're on a float-on trailer, so the situation is even worse: we have six long bunks that we can't get to for prep or paint. But here's the thing--the yard guys told us most of the weight rests on the keelbed. And the trailer manufacturer, which had to send a crew out to adjust the bunks when the trailer didn't even come close to fitting (I think they measured a shoal draft C27) said they set the bunks so they were barely touching the sides and the positions were only important while the trailer was cornering. So what I was thinking of trying was to use heavy ratchet straps to hold the boat upright, running them from deck cleats down to the trailer [cradle] beams, and counting on them to keep the boat from tipping sideways as I worked underneath. Sounds scary, but I can't think of a better way to accomplish the task in a practical sense. Well, actually I can--as an engineer, I know I'm better off to spread the base of my tie-down much wider in order to resist sideways movement. So what I'll try is clamping some beams crosswise under my trailer rails (you could try clamping atop the cradle, or you might just be able to tie off to adjacent cradles in the yard) and tying off my straps to them, striving for a 45 degree outward angle. Does anyone else have better ideas? I'll be doing the work in the driveway and will take pains to get the boat dead level based on the old waterline/scum marks so I can use a rotating laser hung on my wall or the neighbor's wall to tape off the real waterline. This should minimize any side pull on the boat so it will be balanced nicely. David Shaddock 1977 C27 #3495 Pixie (getting prettier by far on the inside, but still looking a bit shabby on the outside--sort of like me) > I have been considering putting a barrier coat on the bottom this year > while still on the hard. The boat rests in a cradle on a stabilized > gravel surface. Has anyone successfully used a jackstand(s) to allow > access under the pads that are attached to the cradle? It is too long a > process to just paint those areas while in the hoist before launch. That > is how I did the VC-17. > > Art Snapper > Sabbatical #6610
