Hi Art, Well, most skippers just take the boat to a marina where it is pulled by a travel lift and placed in the marina boat yard on jack stands. They you pay for 1 months storage while you do the bottom. This is what I plan on doing with my Dixie Chicken this year. You can have the yard move the jack stands around several times during the bottom process to ensure that you have prepped all the boat and painted all the boat.
Pick a yard that allows you to do your own boat work, as some of them have gotten fussy. Hope that helps, Larry Taborek C27 Dixie Chicken > Art, Jeane and I are planning to do a complete hull repaint this spring > and > are faced with a very similar scenario--we can't imagine having a yard > hang > our boat for the time it takes to sand the pad spots, apply six or so > coats of > barrier epoxy, and then apply bottom paint. The fact that bottom paint > was > applied quickly in the past is obvious from the appearance of the bottom > currently: the position of every pad from the PO's cradle is telegraphed > by > virtue of being almost completely ablated and also by being populated by > mussel larvae (or whatever those wispy little eggsacs are). > > We're on a float-on trailer, so the situation is even worse: we have six > long > bunks that we can't get to for prep or paint. But here's the thing--the > yard > guys told us most of the weight rests on the keelbed. And the trailer > manufacturer, which had to send a crew out to adjust the bunks when the > trailer didn't even come close to fitting (I think they measured a shoal > draft > C27) said they set the bunks so they were barely touching the sides and > the > positions were only important while the trailer was cornering. > > So what I was thinking of trying was to use heavy ratchet straps to hold > the > boat upright, running them from deck cleats down to the trailer [cradle] > beams, and counting on them to keep the boat from tipping sideways as I > worked > underneath. Sounds scary, but I can't think of a better way to accomplish > the > task in a practical sense. Well, actually I can--as an engineer, I know > I'm > better off to spread the base of my tie-down much wider in order to resist > sideways movement. So what I'll try is clamping some beams crosswise > under my > trailer rails (you could try clamping atop the cradle, or you might just > be > able to tie off to adjacent cradles in the yard) and tying off my straps > to > them, striving for a 45 degree outward angle. > > Does anyone else have better ideas? I'll be doing the work in the > driveway > and will take pains to get the boat dead level based on the old > waterline/scum > marks so I can use a rotating laser hung on my wall or the neighbor's wall > to > tape off the real waterline. This should minimize any side pull on the > boat > so it will be balanced nicely. > > David Shaddock > 1977 C27 #3495 Pixie (getting prettier by far on the inside, but still > looking > a bit shabby on the outside--sort of like me) > > >> I have been considering putting a barrier coat on the bottom this year >> while still on the hard. The boat rests in a cradle on a stabilized >> gravel surface. Has anyone successfully used a jackstand(s) to allow >> access under the pads that are attached to the cradle? It is too long a >> process to just paint those areas while in the hoist before launch. That >> is how I did the VC-17. >> >> Art Snapper >> Sabbatical #6610 > Dixie Chicken is FOR SALE: You can view the boat at: http://www.taborek.net/Dixie_Chicken/For_Sale/For_Sale.shtml ----------------------------------------- Join ISP.COM today - $8.95 internet , less than 1/2 the cost of AOL Try us out, http://www.isp.com/
