Okay, Dave, so I won't ask you to come to Illinois to help me paint my boat <grin>. Things like "lateral forces, twisting moments, pivot points" are all things familiar to engineers like me--and we're only afraid of what we don't know. I'm thinking all those things through--which is why I explained my analysis in the rest of my message. I'm also familiar with crushed bodies from both angles--I used to be a paramedic, and I was crushed in a pickup truck three years ago when I was broadsided at an intersection. That's beside the point, other than the fact I've lived this long and don't want to cut my life shorter than necessary <grin again>.
I bet I could get John to come up and help me--met him and his wife at StrictlySail last weekend and they're really nice people <grinning a third time>. When it comes down to the physics of the situation--as long as I can keep the boat from leaning more than a few inches off vertical, there's very little sideways force. Once we go beyond that, things become much more difficult. I need to ensure that won't happen. And since I have six long bunks, I'll probably choose the safe route and pull away part of them at a time--maybe fore and aft on one side and center on the other, then swap once the paint is dry. These bunks are about three feet long each... David Shaddock > You're starting to scare me - balancing on the keel? - brings up all sort > things like lateral forces, twisting moments, pivot points, crushed bodies > > Dave > C27 #5212 > Windabout > Cape Cod, MA > http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 12:04 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: bottom paint question > > Mark's got a great point about the life-safety question. And Dave's idea > about rotating the jackstands also brings up the importance of chaining them > > so they can't move. In my situation, I had strongly considered pulling away > a > few bunks at a time, doing all the work needed, and then replacing them > before > moving on. It's all underwater most of the time, anyway, so having some lap > > marks wouldn't be a HUGE issue. My trailer bunks are attached to the frame > by > large stainless steel eyebolts and it would be easy to raise or lower them. > > > I had also thought about just moving them back about four inches--harder to > do > the sanding, but okay for paintwork and would probably save my life and our > boat if the strap arrangement failed. After reading in the last Mainsheet > about a Tartan 3700 which had its deck cleats fail in a storm (stainless > bolts > sheared off!) I'm a little more hesitant about trusting them to manage the > side loads of a heavy boat, even if distributed over, say, three straps per > side. > > On the other hand, if I start out balanced and I've got three equally- > tensioned straps on either side of my boat, holding with, say, 1000 pounds > each at a 45 degree angle, then I've got about 770 pounds each (times three) > > of resistance to the boat starting to flop over. That's a lot more than I > could possibly produce, even if Jeane and I are both sanding hard on the > same > side. I probably don't need nearly that much tension. But my deck cleats > ought to be able to withstand it, especially as a steady pull without the > jerking that the Tartan may have suffered in the storm. > > Opinions? > David Shaddock > > > > I had mine on stands when I redid my bottom a few years ago. I had an > extra > > stand that I used like using a spare tire to rotate the tires. Once I had > > the hull barrier coated except for where the stands were and it was dry > > enough to work with I simply put the extra stand along side the one I > wanted > > to move, set it in place took out the other stand, moved it to the next > etc. > > Then I barrier coated the remaining areas. Did this process when I was > > stripping and sanding the bottom as well. Take your time make sure they > are > > properly set and chained as you move them. I worked on my drive which is > > paved - on gravel make sure you put something under the feet of the stands > > to keep them from moving. Depending on the paint you use make sure you > > wait enough time before moving the stands. > > > > Getting all that old paint off is a chore - even with a remover but the > > results are worth it. > > There are pics on my web site showing the before and after - I have to say > > new barrier coat looks so nice it's almost a shame to cover it with bottom > > paint. > > > > Of course today we are in the throes of a northeaster so I won't be doing > > any boat work > > > > Dave - snowed in > > C27 #5212 > > Windabout > > Cape Cod, MA > > http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [email protected] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Art > > Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 7:27 PM > > To: [email protected] > > Subject: catalina27-talk: bottom paint question > > > > I have been considering putting a barrier coat on the bottom this year > > while still on the hard. The boat rests in a cradle on a stabilized > > gravel surface. Has anyone successfully used a jackstand(s) to allow > > access under the pads that are attached to the cradle? It is too long a > > process to just paint those areas while in the hoist before launch. That > > is how I did the VC-17. > > > > Art Snapper > > Sabbatical #6610 > > > > > >
