You're starting to scare me - balancing on the keel? - brings up all sort things like lateral forces, twisting moments, pivot points, crushed bodies
Dave C27 #5212 Windabout Cape Cod, MA http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 12:04 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: bottom paint question Mark's got a great point about the life-safety question. And Dave's idea about rotating the jackstands also brings up the importance of chaining them so they can't move. In my situation, I had strongly considered pulling away a few bunks at a time, doing all the work needed, and then replacing them before moving on. It's all underwater most of the time, anyway, so having some lap marks wouldn't be a HUGE issue. My trailer bunks are attached to the frame by large stainless steel eyebolts and it would be easy to raise or lower them. I had also thought about just moving them back about four inches--harder to do the sanding, but okay for paintwork and would probably save my life and our boat if the strap arrangement failed. After reading in the last Mainsheet about a Tartan 3700 which had its deck cleats fail in a storm (stainless bolts sheared off!) I'm a little more hesitant about trusting them to manage the side loads of a heavy boat, even if distributed over, say, three straps per side. On the other hand, if I start out balanced and I've got three equally- tensioned straps on either side of my boat, holding with, say, 1000 pounds each at a 45 degree angle, then I've got about 770 pounds each (times three) of resistance to the boat starting to flop over. That's a lot more than I could possibly produce, even if Jeane and I are both sanding hard on the same side. I probably don't need nearly that much tension. But my deck cleats ought to be able to withstand it, especially as a steady pull without the jerking that the Tartan may have suffered in the storm. Opinions? David Shaddock > I had mine on stands when I redid my bottom a few years ago. I had an extra > stand that I used like using a spare tire to rotate the tires. Once I had > the hull barrier coated except for where the stands were and it was dry > enough to work with I simply put the extra stand along side the one I wanted > to move, set it in place took out the other stand, moved it to the next etc. > Then I barrier coated the remaining areas. Did this process when I was > stripping and sanding the bottom as well. Take your time make sure they are > properly set and chained as you move them. I worked on my drive which is > paved - on gravel make sure you put something under the feet of the stands > to keep them from moving. Depending on the paint you use make sure you > wait enough time before moving the stands. > > Getting all that old paint off is a chore - even with a remover but the > results are worth it. > There are pics on my web site showing the before and after - I have to say > new barrier coat looks so nice it's almost a shame to cover it with bottom > paint. > > Of course today we are in the throes of a northeaster so I won't be doing > any boat work > > Dave - snowed in > C27 #5212 > Windabout > Cape Cod, MA > http://dpbcc.home.comcast.net > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Art > Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 7:27 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: catalina27-talk: bottom paint question > > I have been considering putting a barrier coat on the bottom this year > while still on the hard. The boat rests in a cradle on a stabilized > gravel surface. Has anyone successfully used a jackstand(s) to allow > access under the pads that are attached to the cradle? It is too long a > process to just paint those areas while in the hoist before launch. That > is how I did the VC-17. > > Art Snapper > Sabbatical #6610 > >
