While the rails are off use a countersink on the holes in the cabin top roof to create a chamfer just as though you were going to put a flat head screw in them. Then, when you apply the sealant it will leave a ring in the chamfer to seal the hole. You're not relying solely on two flat surfaces mating and there's less risk of the sealant being completely extruded. The two stage tightening sequence is excellent advice. Second time around you're really tightening a gasket.
I've had good luck using Boat Life Life-Calk. Doesn't harden, will cure under water, seals well, parts can be separated.
If you think you'll be removing the hand rails again you might want to think about installing st-st hanger bolts instead of reusing the wood screws. Epoxy the bolt into the rail and cut off the excess threaded portion leaving enough threaded portion in the cabin for a flat washer and cap nut. In the future, remove the cap nuts, gently pry the rail loose and spiff 'em up. The hangers to suspend the rail are all ready in place.
Bill Herrick
Think the 22's sold; closer to buying a 27
On 3/18/06, Rudolph S. Behar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Frank,
An additional suggesstion for all rebeddings:
Use a good caulk, but not too good, ie, 4200 rather than 5200(ask at West). The GE caulk is GE's best housing caulk, I believe, but it mignt not be up to the task of sailboat use.
Put rather too much caulk in and around the hole, then screw the screws in until they are faily well short of tight. 24 hours later, screw rhe bolts in tight.
Reason. If you screw them in tight at first, youll squeeze out the caulk and your attachment most likely will leak., Waiting the day on a loose tightening allows the caulk to set up as a permanent gasket./
Clean up with a putty knife and acetone(??)..?? because I seem to remember better sucess with mineral spirits, which gets the overrun off without affecting deck color.
RudyB..\
Phoenix, @2237
Pasadena, MD
