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He gets good alignment as in he's not gonna crash and he goes fairly
straight, or he gets good alignment and the correct geometry for the
negative roll system?

Just so you know, as I'm sure you've probably already guessed, GW doesn't
recommend using the stock arms since it would take so many shims to make a
correct alignment.  Question for any alignment specialists out there:  Are
there any disadvantages or safety issues of using over a certain number of
shims?  Do they flex or anything when you get that many shims in a stack
like that? Just curious...  I already have the tubular arms, so it's not
like I'm gonna send 'em back :)

Rodney.
71 Chevelle
Phoenix, AZ

----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, August 27, 2001 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Global west conversion -Long


>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Rick, were you following the thread on TC where (cant remember his name)
did the 12 inch conversion without
> using the GW arms? His setup supposedly aligned OK, even with out them.
> I like that idea, (-$$$)so I have been collecting parts to try it out. I
just cant seem to find a part # for the moog
> offset shaft.
>
> jerry
>
>
> 8/27/01 7:27:08 PM, rick schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> >------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >rodney
> >  No I  didn't use their springs.  Mine were replaced the first time I
> >rebuilt the front end,  I will ask my alignment  guy if the springs will
> >make a difference.  I should probably also call GW  and ask an opinion.
> >Your theory makes sense.
> >rick
> >
> >On Sat, 25 Aug 2001 14:07:46 -0700 "Rodney." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >writes:
> >>
> >>Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> >>------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >>Hey Rick,
> >>
> >>I'm just curious if you used their front springs with the conversion?
> >>I'm>assuming you didn't because I think their springs lower the car
> >>another inch>for a 2" total drop.  I was wondering if this may have
> >something to do >with>not being able to achieve their alignment specs?
> >When did the
> >>conversion on>mine, I didn't use their springs (I had just bought new
> >springs 6
> >>months>before), and I couldn't get their alignment specs either.  The
> >shop I
> >>had>mine at didn't mention a sagging frame or anything though.
> >>
> >>Anyways, I was just curious if you or anyone else knew if this would
> >>be a>contributing factor?
> >>
> >>Rodney.
> >>71 Chevelle
> >>Phoenix, AZ
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "rick schaefer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >>Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2001 1:16 PM
> >>Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Global west conversion -Long
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> >>> ------------------------------------------------------------
> >>>
> >>>    My conversion/rebuild is finished (??-more on that later).   To
> >>> update- , I installed Global West upper control arms with tall
> >>spindles &
> >>> 12" brake rotors on my 1972 el camino.   It took quite a bit longer
> >>to
> >>> finish than I expected, but what doesn't.    I am very happy with
> >>the
> >>> results.
> >>>     I haven't had a chance to really wiring it out, but in general
> >>> handling is much better.  I can easily go 60 mph thru a curve that
> >>was
> >>> white knuckle time at 50mph  before. (Maybe the worn front end parts
> >>had
> >>> something to do with this.)  And the car remains flat thru the turn.
> >>> It goes where pointed  and stops much better than the stock discs.
> >>>
> >>>    The spindles dropped the front end 1" on each side (I measured b4
> >>&
> >>> after).  Also the wheel/tire is about 3/8 of an inch (measured with
> >>> wheels straight ahead) closer to the fender than before.  I have
> >>lost a
> >>> little in turning radius.   With a Monte Carlo SS box,  the diameter
> >>of
> >>> the tightest circle I can make is ABOUT 37 feet ( for some strange
> >>reason
> >>> it is a bit tighter going to the left than to the right) .  Before,
> >>the
> >>> diameter was about 36  feet.   Not much, but I can definitly tell
> >>the
> >>> difference when turning into a tight spot.
> >>>
> >>>   Special tools - Tie rod & ball joint pullers- I couldn't make
> >>pickle
> >>> forks work for me & the pullers were cheap (harbor freight $5.00
> >>each),
> >>> INNER spring compressor - I didn't need it for disassembly but had
> >>to
> >>> have it for reassembly (harbor freight $14.00) 27mm socket for the
> >>> spindle nut.  Air tools are sooooo much nicer during disassembly.
> >>>
> >>>   Time -  Disassembly  was about 3.5 hours.
> >>>              Reassembly was about 14 hours.
> >>>   I only worked on it 1-2 hours per day.  Includes doing several
> >>things
> >>> over, and working for an hour or 2 (TRYING to reinstall springs)
> >>and NOT
> >>> really accomplishing a thing.   Does not include chassis degreasing
> >>&
> >>> paint of new parts or installlation of bushings & ball joints.
> >>>
> >>> Parts - I used spindles from an 86 Caprice Estate wagon,  calipers &
> >>> hoses from an 80 Camaro.  Stock 72 calipers WILL bolt up to the
> >>spindles
> >>> & probably would work.  Stock hoses are too short.They need to be
> >>about 1
> >>> 1/2 inch longer.  I could not make a full (stop to stop) turn with
> >>the
> >>> stock hoses.  The camaro hoses are the right length, BUT do not lock
> >>into
> >>> the 72 frame brackets correctly.  The 72 bracket is too thick.  I
> >>looked
> >>> at many different hoses, but could not find any that had the correct
> >>> length & would clip into the bracket.    Next trip to the wrecking
> >>yard
> >>> I'll retrieve some thinner brackets.
> >>>
> >>>      THE BAD NEWS - My frame is sagging.  The alignment shop could
> >>not
> >>> get the car into specs recommended by Global West.  The best they
> >>could
> >>> do on camber is -1 degree on each side.   It still runs OK, but I
> >>will
> >>> have tire wear problems until I get the frame pushed out   (Anyone
> >>know
> >>> what that costs?) .  The frame will have to wait, as its gonna take
> >>me a
> >>> while to pay off the rebuild parts.
> >>>      I was aware that some frames sag but thought that my 120,000
> >>mile
> >>> never really molested/wrecked elky would be immune.  Wrong!    My
> >>nickels
> >>> worth, if you are gonna invest in a costly long term  restoration,
> >>get
> >>> the frame checked early.  Just think of it as another long term
> >>> investment.
> >>>    If anyone has questions, fire away.
> >>>
> >>>    Last thing - I definitly  do NOT like the downhil look.   I need
> >>to
> >>> drop the back end about an inch.  Does anyone have suggestions on
> >>> springs?   I'd prefer MOOG or TRW but let me know what works.
> >>>
> >>> rick (Abilene Texas)
> >>> 72 El Camino  TPI 350/700r4
> >>> ACES #00140   TEAM CHEVELLE #00038
> >>> http://members.home.net/jimmy4/rick1972elky.html
> >>> http://chevelles.com/showroom/ricks%20motor%20-L
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
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> >>
> >>
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> >
>
> http://Kickass.at/66MalibuSS
>
>
>
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