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Yeah, buy the can. Just in case. To use them, I have had to replace the adjustible linkage piece with a longer/stronger one from lakewood also, and used an adjustible clutch fork pivot ball to get the fork geometry correct. Pay attention to that, as the fork can break its fingers &/or fall off the TO bearing if its out of wack. While you're at it, I'd suggest you examine each piece of clutch linkage and where they connect together. They are commonly worn, and while you have it apart, you can reweld, redrill, rebush or replace as necessary. I like to reinforce the Z bar arms & have the welds to the tube checked, as they can flex & break over time. If you're using a stiff pressure plate, I also modify the frame mount for the Z bar by welding new plate over it and drilling a hole to replace the slot that it comes with. Harder to install, but I've had those break off at inopportune moments before. Glenn > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of NoNeck > Sent: Monday, January 07, 2002 4:39 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [Chevelle-List] Bellhousings ????? > > > I am wondering how many of you have 500 HP+ big block 4 speed combos >and >are running a stock aluminum bellhousing? Should I bite the bullet and >spend >the $200 for a Lakewood blowproof bellhousing? The motor is out and now is >the time to do it, if I'm going to and I was wondering what the consensus >was? And also wondering if anybody has a used one for sale AND if they bolt >up without any modifications? Thanks for any input! > Josh Gin (NoNeck) Visit my Chevelle website www.NoNecksChevelle.com _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com ----------------------------------------------------- To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
