Danny,

Great choice!  When you outgrow it in a couple years, let me know.  That's
my next boat!

It all depends on condition.  Outdated electronics are one thing.  Blown
out sails, worn out running rigging (150 foot halyard is not cheap), rod
that needs to be re-headed, bottom that needs to be blasted or a tired
engine all add another dimension.  How motivated is the seller?  Has he
bought another boat?  How long has it been on  the market?  This is a good
time of year to buy.  Seller is looking at a winter storage bill if he is
up north.

It looks like there are 4 within an hour of you.  I wonder why one broker
is 20k higher than the others.
Good luck!

Joel




On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 8:42 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So, what would be a fair price for a, hasn't been upgraded in over 10
> years, 37plus?
>
> I'm lining up a couple to look at.
>
> Danny
> Lolita
> 1973 Viking 33
> Westport Point, MA
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Upsizing Boats
> Date: Wed, 20 Aug 2014 06:44:12 -0500
>
> I was worried about the Internet horror stories on cored hulls too before
> I bought my boat.  Then I talked to experts who work on boats for a
> living..
>
> Here's what they said:
>
> 1st the likelihood that you get severe delamination is  pretty slim.  This
> spring I had my bottom stripped to the bare gelcoat (A very big job, had
> never been done) We found no blisters.
>
> 2nd:  Even if you get blisters, it's actually not that big a deal. In the
> yard I've seen boats with what looked like pretty bad rashes and no one was
> phased..  If repaired correctly you end up with a sound hull that's a
> little heavier.  This whole thing's been around for a long time and it's
> been figured-out.
>
> 3rd:  In the extreme case where the core gets wet. Many folks elect to
> just keep on sailing for another decade or 2.
>
> A couple things that make the 34+ series boats less worry some for the
> core:
>
> - The Hydrex NPG Gelcoat they used was very resistant to water absorption,
> oxidation,  and blisters. Similar stuff is used on most of the better boats
> today. As an additional plus it does not chalk-up
>
> - C&C was selective with the use of coring.  For example: It's solid
> laminate on the bottom area in front of the keel where the transducers are.
>  That section is about a foot wide and 3 long.  No worries about special
> cored hull procedures for installing / replacing transducers.  Same thing
> on the deck: The areas where deck hardware is installed are almost all
> solid areas.  In the stress areas where there might be some hardware the
> deck is cored with Coromat which does not rot.
>
> About the stiffness of the hull.  The 34+ was the 1st CAD designed boat at
> C&C, the mast step / keel mount grid area is Epoxy "cored" with Nomex
> honeycomb and the rest of the hull is Hybrid Kevlar / glass. Cutting edge
> stuff for the day.  That makes for a stiff and lightweight hull at around
> 12,500 lbs , the light / stiff  hull allows adding more weight on the keel
> which allows it to handle bigger sails. The sugar scoop tail not only look
> racy it also elongates the water line. at almost 31 ft it has the same  /
> longer water line as the older 38 -40 foot designs.  All that to kick some
> booty on the water :-)
>
> This was the last of the real Canadian C&C's.   After decades of building
> fast cored hulls, they had a lot of things figured-out.
>
> -Francois
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Georgia
>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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