Thanks Rick, you're right it runs at about 170 but there wasn't a big load and yes I was concentrating on the exhaust and the apparent increase in pressure that the water was blowing out at...it has 1.5 inch exhaust outlet, I belive it is the original, to which I have attached a PVC 90 degree elbow so that the water blows down as opposed to straight back from the boat...the increased sound I was referring to is at 2800 rpm, it's a long time since I have driven her that fast because of the past overheat issues so I really wasn't used to the sound but it's not that bad and I would say maybe less than the sound of other small diesels operating at 2800 rpm...she really runs smooth and not all that loud when you'r at the sweet spots. I am driving a 3 blade H5 Auotprop on a 7/8 shaft...seems to me from the way she operates that my alignment is pretty good
Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS [email protected] On Sat, Aug 15, 2015 at 3:03 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > Dwight; > > > > I think your thermostat is 165 degrees, so the engine temperature should > run from about 165 to 180 depending on the load on the engine. > > > > You said you were pumping more water through the system than before. Does > your boat still have the 1 ½” exhaust outlet that was used for the A4 > engine, or does it have a 2” outlet recommended for the diesel? Could more > volume going through the same size (and possibly slightly restrictive) > opening account for the increased sound? Or is it an “audible” illusion > because you are concentrating so closely on the exhaust? > > > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *dwight > veinot via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, August 15, 2015 7:06 AM > *To:* [email protected] > *Cc:* dwight veinot <[email protected]> > > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > > > yesterday first trial under auxilliary power since acid cleaning the salt > water heat exchanger...into a 15 kt apparent headwind, no appreciable sea > > first sweet spot 1600 rpm 4-4.5 kts forward. coolant temp 170F > > second sweet spot 2200 rpm, 6-6.5 kts forward still 170F smooth but I > little louder to be expected, > > third sweet spot 2800 rpm, 7+ kts louder than a like but bearable and > coolant temp still between 170-180F > > Maybe she's running a little too cool now > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > [email protected] > > > > > > On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 12:28 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > Dwight, > > Very logical method. I may try that too. > > > > Chuck > > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > *To: *[email protected] > *Cc: *"dwight" <[email protected]> > *Sent: *Tuesday, August 11, 2015 8:34:44 PM > > > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > > > I just wanted to give an update on cleaning the salt water side of the > heat exchanger on my Universal M4-30. I took the easy way out and used > chemicals and increased the rate of salt water exiting the exhaust from > around 1 gallon per minute before cleaning to over 3 gallons per minute > after cleaning at idle (1000 rpm). > > > > Here is a summary of what I did. I disconnected the inlet hose to the > salt water pump and tied it off high above the waterline so I did not have > to close the hull valve which is not located in the easiest of places to > reach on Alianna. I removed the pencil zinc from the heat exchanger and > inserted a blank plug. I bought 4L of concentrated (31.45%) muriatic acid > (same as hydrochloric acid) for about $10 from the local hardware store > and I diluted 2L of that concentrated acid 1 acid to 5 fresh water in a 3 > gallon plastic bucket...it is important to always add acid to water (just > like the alphabet goes A to W) and also to have a ready supply of water to > flush if you accidentally get some on your skin or in your eyes and also be > careful not to inhale fumes when you open the concentrate container. My > first degree was Hons Chem and I had many years of advising Dockyard staff > in the chemical cleaning facility for the Canadian Navy so I have a fair > knowledge of chemicals and their interaction with metals and their safe use. > > So I ran the engine up with a section of hose from the salt water pump > into the bucket of acid mix and introduced about a gallon of the mix into > the heat exchanger and then stopped the engine. Let that soak for 10 > minutes and then started the engine again and introduced a second gallon of > acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 10 minutes. When the > first batch exited the exhaust it was a dirty rust yellow color and the > flow exiting the exhaust already appeared much increased. Then after 10 > minutes soaking with the second batch I started the engine and introduced a > third gallon of acid mix, stopped the engine and let that soak for 5 more > minutes. The effluent from the exhaust got cleaner after the second and > third soaks and after 3 soaks it had no visible color. Then I reconnected > the hose for saltwater intake to the pump and ran the engine on idle for > about an hour. while I measured more accurately the water flow out the > exhaust which was over 3 times the rate before the cleaning at over 3 > gallons per minute on idle. I suppose the real test will come when I steam > into my first head wind and want the engine running at 3000 rpm or better > for more power but for now I feel quite assured that my over heat issue has > been addressed. I will replace the pencil zinc later but I must say it > does not get wasted that quickly since it has been insatlled for nearly 2 > seasons now and still seems to be quite intact so I guess it would do 3 > seasons at least. > > > > Anyway this process took about an hour, plus the celebration time while > the engine was running on idle after the cleaning and all seems well. My > thought is that acid cleaning is a lot easier and probably more effective > than mechanical cleaning with wooden dowels or wires. I will now do this > procedure (probably only one soaking) on a more regular basis because I > really think it did an excellent job. I believe phosphoric acid might also > do a good cleaning but it was not readily availbale without going to the > big city. I am a happy sailor tonight. Thanks to eveyone for the helpful > input, especially that video on Rydlyme from Chuck which Robert drew to my > attention. > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > [email protected] > > > > > > On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 8:52 PM, dwight veinot <[email protected]> wrote: > > Rick, how did replacing the pressure cap on the fresh water side solve > your problem. I have never checked the thermostat but the hose clamps do > not appear to be leaking...there is an overflow drain right below the > pressure cap. > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > [email protected] > > > > On Sun, Aug 9, 2015 at 12:30 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < > [email protected]> wrote: > > Dwight, > > > > I have an M35B (which is a newer engine but appears similar to the M4-30) > in Imzadi, and my process for cleaning the heat exchanger is slightly > different than Chuck’s but accomplishes the same thing. > > > > My heat exchanger is athwart the aft end of the engine. Access to the heat > exchanger is only practical through the cockpit locker on the starboard > side. Both cleaning the exchanger and changing the pencil zinc are done > from down in that locker. The end cap of the exchanger on the port side of > the boat is almost impossible without major surgery because of the quarter > berth. > > > > Shut off the raw water seacock. Remove the end cap and seal to open up the > chamber that includes the zinc and access to the cooling tubes for the raw > water. As with Chuck’s exchanger there are something like 30 tubes that run > through the body of the exchanger that holds the fresh water. You will lose > a gallon or two of raw water into the bilge, but you are not opening up the > fresh water side of the system at all. > > > > I use a rod and stiff wire brush, that I bought at the local sporting > goods store for about $20US, that is made for cleaning the barrel of a .22 > caliber rifle. The brush will clean the scale from inside the tubes very > well. I have also pushed a couple of chunks of corroded zinc out of the > tubes when I went more than a year without changing the pencil zinc and the > zinc was really used up. Push the rod and brush through each tube and then > pull it back out. Reassemble the end cap, turn on the seacock, and you are > good to go. > > > > The hardest part is cleaning and repacking the locker and climbing in an > out. I personally think every boat should come with its own midget, or with > a precocious 12 year old that has a mechanical engineering degree. > > > > My boat normally runs about 165-170 degrees, and will get to 185 or so if > I push it at hull speed for a while. Two years ago I had experience with it > climbing above 200 (which is why I got the tool for cleaning the heat > exchanger) but the final solution to the problem was replacing the pressure > cap on the fresh water side of the engine. Be sure to check out the cap, > thermostat, and hose clamps on the fresh water side if you have not done > so already. > > > > At the recommendation of my friend, who is a diesel mechanic and helped > with my repower 5 years ago, I change the zinc yearly and clean the > exchanger every two or three years. He recommended doing it every other > year if sailing in salt water to avoid salt buildup. He indicated there is > really no need to clean the fresh water side of the heat exchanger if you > keep proper coolant in the engine. > > > > Because there have been so many stories on the list about plugged exhaust > elbows on Yanmar engines, I asked about the need for cleaning the exhaust > riser on my Universal. He said the Universal/Westerbeke/Beta engines are > quite different than the elbows on the Yanmars, and very seldom have > problems. On the Yanmar 2GMF in his J/30, OTOH, removing the elbow and > cleaning it out is part of annual maintenance. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Chuck > S via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, August 09, 2015 9:35 AM > *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list <[email protected]> > *Cc:* Chuck S <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cleaning heat exchanger > > > > Hi Dwight, > > I do have the M4-30 and it when it ran hotter than normal, I clean the > little tubes with 1/8" wooden rods I buy from an art supply or hardware > store. I run my engine at 190 degrees. I thottle back if the temperature > gets above that. > > > > To clean: > > With the engine off and the seacock shut, I remove both ends of the > exchanger and simply push the wooden dowels through a few times. There are > about 30 to 40 tubes, but it's pretty easy. A diesel mechanic recommended > I remove the exchanger and have it acid cleaned to remove any scale from > the fresh water side. I haven't done that. I heard of a product you use > without disassembly, and then you flush it and replace your water and > antifreeze mix. I'll try and find that. > > > > Chuck > > > > > ------------------------------ > > *From: *"dwight veinot via CnC-List" <[email protected]> > *To: *[email protected] > *Cc: *"dwight" <[email protected]> > *Sent: *Sunday, August 9, 2015 8:20:01 AM > *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Raymarine EV-100 and backbone wiring > > > > Hi Chuck > > > > I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and that > you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger. Is that correct and if so > what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything clogging > it? Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt water > from the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line? My M4-30 runs great > at 1600 rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I think > it should, like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and sometimes > 220 F but the engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than I would > like to see. I would like to see more water exiting the boat and I know my > raw water pump is good since I have installed a new impeller with no > noticeable change in performance and I know the raw water feed to that pump > is not blocked, lots of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from the > pump. Can yo give me any advice from your experience. > > > > Thanks > > dwight > > > Dwight Veinot > > C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna* > > Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS > > [email protected] > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > [email protected] > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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