Yes, I will. Once I am on the dry and have all the right materials. The purpose of this was to see the condition of the washers, nuts, bolts and bilge. At least now I know that the source of all the rust were 3 ferrous backing plates that were used, probably because of ignorance or sloppyness I don't think they are original. This is a salvage boat. I don't have one picture but there are 3 cutouts. Rear Section <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/rearbilge.jpg> Forward Section <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/frontbilge.jpg>
Looks like the plaque is saying this is a 1973 25 hull number 5 Btw am I hull number 5 ? <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/plaque.jpg> I guess I will save money on putting up the sail number :) *Ahmet* *Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA* *1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"* *1973 C&C 25 Hull 5 "Tabasco" * On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Ahmet, > > > > Get rid of the galvanized washers now, they will corrode. The rest of your > repair sounds fine. > > If you look at the pictures of my bilge you will see that under the nuts > are a stack-up of stainless washers. > > The number of washers will depend on if you have a deep socket or not. > > You don’t need lock washers, that’s what tightening to the proper torque > is for, the 1½ inch nuts on the three large 1 inch keel studs are torqued > to 350 ft/pounds. > > The ¾ inch nut on the smaller ½ inch stud at the front is torqued to 80 > ft/pounds. *Do not over-torque this one, it will break*. > > > > On a different note, in your picture 11 it looks like the floor liner has > been cut out quite a lot to access the bilge. > > I’d like to see a picture of the whole area to compare it to the picture > of mine. > > > > Cheers > > > > Rick Taillieu > > Nemesis > > '75 C&C 25 #371 > > Shearwater Yacht Club > > Halifax, NS. > > > > > > > > >
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