ACR - combines battery banks for charging and separates them when not charging. Regulator - controls the alternator. You need both ;) (or a switch and a human for the ACR) You still want to see the amps coming out of your alternator. I use this device for mine: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DDQM6Z4/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487346315&sr=sr-1&keywords=hall+effect It does not need a shunt, which is very nice. High side shunts are a PITA. I wrote about it here: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9835
-----Original Message----- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 10:27 To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring Universal starter/glow plug/alternator Hi Josh- My plan at present is to not do quick and dirty. I plan to eliminate the ammeter circuit, remove the internal alternator regulation (I have that conversion kit already), and then run the alternator directly to the batteries. I am still unclear on the functionality of the multi-stage voltage regulators vs. ACR’s. I would have to put in a voltage regulator of some sort if I remove the internal regulation, but I am not sure whether one also needs an ACR. Dave PS- no one has answered my question about the rationale for draining the water heater. Dr. David Knecht Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. U-3125 Storrs, CT 06269-3125 860-486-2200 > On Feb 17, 2017, at 7:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > David, > > It sounds like you got the "quick and dirty" answers you were looking for. > If you are going to be using an external regulator then the quick and dirty > method shouldn't be used. As Fred said, a dedicated large gauge wire from > the alternator straight to the house battery bank. You'll program your > regulator to match your house battery chemistry. > > The solenoid I would use for the glow plugs looks like the one in the link > below. They're cheap starter solenoids. $10 or $20 is a good ballpark cost. > > http://search.defender.com/?SI=ec6c8f2d-678f-4a95-87a1-354ee39a99a1&Action=14&AXD=http%3a%2f%2fwww.defender.com%2fProductDisplay%3fprodnum%3d202096%7e202096%7eCole+Hersee+Continuous+Duty+Solenoid+12+Volt+DC%7e24.99 > > Rewiring your panel and eliminating the orange wire will render your ammeter > useless. If you'd like, the safe way to add an ammeter is by installing a > shunt ON THE NEGATIVE BATTERY terminal. The shunt has a linear voltage drop > (millivolts) to current ratio so with the shunt attached to the negative > battery terminal and all of the ground paths attached to the shunt, a voltage > reading (0-100mV) across the shunt will be proportional to the current > (0-100amps). An inadvertent contact with the shunt or signal wire will > represent only millivolts more than ground so a fault would not be hazardous. > Since the signal voltage is so low a very long run of signal wire could be > used to power your ammeter. A new ammeter would need to be selected such > that it matches the shunt in order to read properly. Placing the shunt on > the ground terminal also ensures that total charging and discharging currents > can be measured. > > https://www.solar-electric.com/mka-100-100.html?gclid=CK2Uq_GKl9ICFd6KswodJYkPhw > > The original "orange" wire was designed for a low current alternator on a > tractor or skid loader application. Once the engine was started the charge > current would quickly drop as the engine charged the battery to its full > capacity. A 30amp alternator might only see 30amps for a few seconds after > start. The orange wire carried the full supply of alternator power from the > engine to the control panel ammeter and then to the battery. 30 amps > momentarily on a short run of 10 gauge wire isn't a big deal in a tractor but > on a boat with the panel and batteries significantly further from the engine > and often in opposite directions of one another its a more significant > concern. Add to that the fact that owners regularly upgrade their alternator > to 3 or 4 times the normal output and you have a recipe for disaster. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > On Feb 12, 2017 11:45 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > Siting here watching lots of snow come down makes my thoughts turn to boat > maintenance and I have been reading the very useful Mainecruising site. > > First question- Engine panel, alternator wiring and charge control > I have a Universal diesel on my boat and the infamous trailer connectors > described here: > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade&page=1. I > also have the panel pictured in this article with ammeter and tachometer. I > have already replaced one of the trailer connectors (partially melted) by > directly splicing all the wires to their mates with butt connectors and will > do the other in the spring. I have read the article a number of times now > and am reasonably sure I should also do the starter circuit upgrade as he > recommends, but some of the details are fuzzy to me. I have a hard time > understanding the whole thing if I can’t look at a wiring diagram. Has > anyone created a wiring diagram for the starter/alternator/switches/glow > plugs/panel on these Universals? > > More specifically- his first recommendation is the quick and dirty fix: > Simply jump the alternator output to the starter post and disconnect the > orange wire. With this jumper the alternator output bypasses the 20+/- feet > of teeny tiny 10GA wire and uses the large gauge starter wire to make its way > back to the battery switch and then to the battery banks. > I presume this eliminates the ammeter completely (no big loss in my book as I > never look at it). I am fuzzy on the reason this is important since the > alternator does not drive the starter, so without a circuit diagram I am > having trouble seeing what this accomplishes. > > Also- If I go for more than the quick and dirty- I think I have two options. > First would be running the alternator to the house bank and an ACR to the > starter battery. Second would be a charge controller (Balmar 614) between > the alternator and the battery banks. Am I right that it is one or the > other? What I read from the same site makes me think the charge controller > is the much better option since I have AGM batteries and he discusses > extensively the problems of Motorola alternators, temperature compensation > and charge control > http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/automotive_alternators_vs_deep_cycle_batteries. > > > Also, If I add a glow plug solenoid as he discusses, is this the right > solenoid to use: > http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=2262949 > > > > Second unrelated question: > In his section on winterizing water systems he says: Water heaters are always > drained and by-passed you do not run pink through them! > > I have done this both ways, but I can’t see why it is so much better to > bypass and drain. I found it a real PITA to bypass the water heater so have > been doing it the easy way of emptying the water tanks and then running > propylene glycol through until red comes out both hot and cold lines. Maybe > if I plumbed it to make bypass easier, I might do it that way, but I can’t > see why it matters other than using more antifreeze. > > Thanks- Dave > > Aries > 1990 C&C 34+ > New London, CT > > <pastedGraphic.tiff> > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
