HI Fred,
I think the VHB thickness used most frequently is 0.090". I believe
that thickness to be sufficient to allow movement of the acrylic without
cracking.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 8:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> An earlier lister talked about a port on his 37 cracking because of flex.
> I too had that problem after a somewhat rough trip up the coast. My
> question is "would a thicker VBR tape allow greater flexing and prevent the
> port breaking." I believe 1/16" tape has be been recommended. Would 1/8"
> tape help?
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I think Frank was just referring to the fact that silicone calk and tape
>> of any type are only short sighted solutions and may even make the final
>> repair more difficult. Silicone makes everything it touches nearly
>> impervious to any other adhesive or sealer in the future, and most tapes
>> will break down after a short period of time resulting in a messy residue
>> which will necessitate the used of a goo remover which may, like silicone,
>> make future adhesives ineffective.
>>
>> "Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip."
>>
>> The "right" way is generally accepted to be 3M VHB tape followed by Dow
>> 795 to seal the edges. Mechanical fasteners would seemingly improve the
>> longevity of the seal but destroy the look and would likely prove to have
>> unforseen disadvantages.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Mar 28, 2017 4:43 PM, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Okay, I’ll bite: what does it mean to “do the job right”?
>> Caulk/adhesive, mechanical fasteners, or both?
>>
>> *From:* Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 28, 2017 4:36 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Franklin Schenk <fdsch...@flash.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C
>> 37/40+
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> Yes, it is mostly wishful thinking as some of us learned the hard way.
>> Unless you are sailing in the rain I suggest a tarp while in the slip.
>> Later you can do the job right and not have to remove any calk or tape.
>>
>> Frank
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 28, 2017 2:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I'm guessing it's wishful thinking. The windows "work" significantly
>> when the boat flexes and I doubt the sealant will work for long. My
>> previous owner tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success. That
>> being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone and may work
>> better than what the PO used.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello again everyone,
>>
>> Our C&C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
>> windows. I have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many
>> seem to be recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or
>> similar).
>>
>> I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing them
>> for now. While they are showing some crazing, and I intend to eventually
>> replace them (say in 18 months or so), in the short term I simply want to
>> stop all leaks so that we can prevent any further staining of the teak.
>>
>> Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing this? Should I simply
>> attempt to carefully mask the fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and
>> apply a bead of Dow 795?
>>
>> Would it be better to apply a thin layer on the inside?
>>
>> Or, am I guilty of wishful thinking?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
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