Scott, I have replaced all of my port and hatch lenses on my boat. For the hatches, I recommend using acrylic. But for fixed ports, I recommend using polycarbonate for the replacement lenses. Polycarbonate has a bad rap because of older variants were more prone to scratching and UV degradation. The new variants like Makrolon made by Bayer is UV resistant and extended abrasion resistant. Working with polycarbonate has some really nice features. First off, polycarbonate is bullet proof strong which means you don’t need polycarbonate to be as thick as acrylic. Whereas one might use 3/8” acrylic, 1/4” polycarbonate is plenty thick. It is also not as brittle as acrylics which means that it is easier to cut, sand, and shape. Acrylic easily chips and cracks which can turn into creeping cracks. But more importantly, polycarbonate is much more flexible and will fit your curvature nicely.
I replaced my fixed ports almost 3 years ago, and they still look like new. I have a description of my port work on my blog. See http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts - Paul E. 1981 C&C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ > On Nov 21, 2017, at 6:34 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: > > Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2017 21:59:31 +0000 > From: Scott Baker <sc...@anglersportgroup.com > <mailto:sc...@anglersportgroup.com>> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Subject: Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights > Message-ID: > > <3EF66FAE046FA642ABD7835F36723AB7B997DE30@HEXANDMBX-05.manage-cloud.local > <mailto:3EF66FAE046FA642ABD7835F36723AB7B997DE30@HEXANDMBX-05.manage-cloud.local>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Hi All, > I am still really new in this group and I've not really figured out how to > search through the archives to find the advice I need. > I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to replace > my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. > Some background and my questions: > ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight curvature > in them. > ~I've watched Andy's Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape > from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS > > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list=PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS> > ~I like Andy's install method but obviously I'm worried about the curvature > issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? If I brace > them in place I fear they will pop back "flat" again later? Solutions? > ~I'm afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures > because of the expansion issues etc... Is this a stupid fear? > ~I've done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a > different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. > Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website. > ~I'd like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to > see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up... Yes? > ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old > windows. > ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones... so > therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the removal > of these windows without hacking everything up? > ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY... Do I > need to wait until it's really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing the > old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in the > spring? > Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers? > If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, > I'd love to be edumacated! > Sorry for beating this dead horse. > ~Scott Baker
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