As to patterning, take a rubbing off the original window before you start the dismantling process. Mine came out in roughly 38 pieces each.
Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 21 November 2017 at 18:40, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List < [email protected]> wrote: > Scott, > > > > I’ve done the portlights on my boat…twice, both time with Plexus. I am > happy with the results, but the VHB route seems to work well also. I might > give that a try next time. > > > > In the meantime, removing the old portlights can be done with a hammer and > a thin putty knife. The putty knife will help separate the portlight from > the opening. The hammer will provide some persuasion. Be careful, as any > dings and dents will need to get filled with epoxy later. Even though the > old portlights may not come out in one piece, they can be taped together to > form a pattern for the new ones. > > > > Plexus is rock hard at most temperatures. Warming it with a heat gun may > help the process, if ambient temperatures aren’t that high. > > > > I went with a dark, smoke tint. More modern than the original bronze > color. It also hides the adhesive better. I have the Plexus caulk gun > that I can loan you, if you want to go that route. Let me know. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Jake > > > > *Jake Brodersen* > > *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”* > > *Hampton VA* > > > > > > > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Scott > Baker via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, November 21, 2017 17:00 > *To:* [email protected] > *Cc:* Scott Baker <[email protected]> > *Subject:* Stus-List Fixing leaky portlights > > > > Hi All, > > I am still really new in this group and I’ve not really figured out how to > search through the archives to find the advice I need. > > I know this topic has probably been exhausted on here, but I need to > replace my portlights on my 1987 35MKIII. > > Some background and my questions: > > ~My boat has 2 windows on each side, but they still have a slight > curvature in them. > > ~I’ve watched Andy’s Youtube Video where he uses VHB (Very High Bond) Tape > from 3M to install similar portlights. (although no curvature) > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8&index=2&list= > PLV97GZkHhpHMFb660AAGO4PuRKJPmHxDS > > ~I like Andy’s install method but obviously I’m worried about the > curvature issue. Can I induce curve into the windows before I mount them? > If I brace them in place I fear they will pop back “flat” again later? > Solutions? > > ~I’m afraid of using screws or through bolts in the mounting proceedures > because of the expansion issues etc… Is this a stupid fear? > > ~I’ve done enough scoping around to learn that everyone seems to have a > different opinion of what the best material is to make new windows out of. > Andy points us towards a specific material and source on his website. > > ~I’d like my new windows to be tinted, it seems this would make it hard to > see in and also hide the flange in case it gets mucked up… Yes? > > ~I cannot find a good explanation of the best method to remove the old > windows. > > ~I think many use the old windows as templates to make the new ones… so > therefore they must be removing them intact? Has anyone mastered the > removal of these windows without hacking everything up? > > ~My boat is on the hard and inside a huge shed now in Upstate, NY… Do I > need to wait until it’s really warm to do this? Maybe I work on removing > the old windows and cleaning up the mounting areas and put new ones in in > the spring? > > Can someone point me in the right direction to find all the answers? > > If there is a trick to locating past chats about all this on the C&C site, > I’d love to be edumacated! > > Sorry for beating this dead horse. > > ~Scott Baker > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > >
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