On the 27- mik III I just make sure the extension stays vertical. Not dealing 
with that much torque.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 15, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

Hopefully, I'm visualizing the situation correctly.  The configuration I see is 
the socket on the nut, an extension of X inches held by a bushing several 
inches above the socket, then the multiplier on top of the extension.

I just don't see a difference for the multiplier if the extension is held 
firmly.  What difference does it make if the multiplier is 1 inch, 12 inches or 
24 inches from the socket if the extension is held where it can't tilt or 
misalign?  See what I'm thinking?

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 14, 2018 at 9:15 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
That's a pretty good idea Dennis.  So I take it that you prefer getting the 
multiplier out of the hole and using the handle?

Josh

On Jan 14, 2018 8:16 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Get some PVC pipe, PVC fittings or some wood pieces and make a bushing for the 
hole in the sole to steady the top of the extension and keep it aligned.  
Torque away!

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jan 14, 2018 at 6:09 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
So now I have a new problem.  Keel bolt #4 is down a deep hole and is 
constrained to a narrow channel.  The immediate thought is to simply use an 
extension.  Problem is that the torque multiplier specifically states to not 
use an extension... I assume on the output shaft.  I also assume that the 
reason for this is to ensure alignment stays perfect while applying such 
extreme torque.

So, is it better to brace the handle-less multiplier in the bottom of the hole 
while using an extension on the 1/2" drive input shaft to apply the required 
torque?  Without a handle I'll shore up the edges of the hull to attempt to 
prevent excessive point loads and crushing.

Or is it better to use a 13" long, 3/4" drive, extension between the socket and 
the multiplier to get the multiplier above the hole?  This would allow using 
the handle on the multiplier.

Here are some pictures:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1G3HVN_jj0PYa0e5Otk9nwdqVoR4CYTCy

Thanks,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jan 13, 2018 10:35 PM, [email protected]<mailto:[email protected]> wrote:
It looks like I should have checked my standard nut/bolt sizes.  See the 
attached chart.

Josh




On Jan 13, 2018 7:54 PM, "Josh Muckley" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
The only thing I had close to 1-13/16 was 1-7/8 which seemed to fit the #5 bolt 
and it was only best measured as a 1-1/4" stud.

#1 and #7 match, measuring 1" and fit 1-1/2 socket.

Here's the latest chart (* denotes unchecked)
Keel bolts (fwd to aft):
         Nut                       stud
1 - 1 1/2 (38mm)    1 (25mm)
2 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
*3 - 2 1/4 (57mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
4 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm)
*6 - 2 1/4 (57mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)
7 - 1 1/2 (38mm)    1 (25mm)
*8 - 3/4 (19.5mm)    1/2 (13mm)

Josh

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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