I had pretty decent luck torqueing the keel bolts today. A few of the studs were damaged/corroded on the threads extending past the nut but not on the threads protected by the nut when fully tightened. I lubed the rough threads with extra thick tef-gel and things seemed to go together smooth enough. The 3:1 multiplier was effective but I think a 4:1 or 5:1 would have made the job a little easier. I was definitely glad I brought a 3 foot pipe to help stabilize the reaction bar. It was extremely helpful to have a second person present to monitor and stabilize the whole apparatus. I stand by my statement from last night that keeping the operating wrench as close to the multiplier as possible minimizes the creation of odd twisting motions. My concerns of using an output drive extension were unfounded and I would encourage anyone who is hesitating, to use one.
We were out of the water and set on a block around 9:30am and done with the torque by 12:30. This included removing each nut, cleaning the nut and stud, and then reinstalling each one at a time. Overall a very smooth process but the preparation was a very important part. I used the torque values from the link below as a guide. 316 SS lubricated. https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque 3:1 multiplier 1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 3 2 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 3 3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 3 4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 3 5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 465 = 155 x 3 6 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 615 = 205 x 3 7 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 255 = 85 x 3 8 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 38 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 2, 2018 3:18 PM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <[email protected]> wrote: Ok Guys, Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of the keel bolts. I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked the archives for torque specs. I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the appropriate sized sockets. I think I can do it for less than the yard is going to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools. I'll also be able to tell myself that it was done correctly. That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows: - be on the hard - loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel - reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels. I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses. Keel bolts (fwd to aft): Nut stud torque 1 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 350 2 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600? 3 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600? 4 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600? 5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm) 450 6 - 2 3/16 (56mm) 1 1/2 (38mm) 600? 7 - 1 1/2 (38mm) 1 (25mm) 350 8 - 3/4 (19.5mm) 1/2 (13mm) 80 *Anything I'm missing?* Thanks, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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