Thanks Josh! I bet we have a similar deck as well. This helps me out. I have no head liner…beauty of the stripped down version so I have everything accessible.
Thanks. > On Aug 31, 2018, at 5:05 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > <[email protected]> wrote: > > Mine is a 37+ but I presume that much of the design and construction is > similar. > > The design notes regarding Kevlar have it as part of the layup. I think Ken > Heaton might have a better idea but the idea is that the Kevlar simply makes > up some of the layers of matting/roving in the fiberglass. I would expect it > in the hull and would not be surprised to see it in the deck. Hard to say if > it would be preferentially placed in the inner or outer skin. > > As for the core, I was anticipating deck rot when I had my mast pulled. To > my pleasant surprise the cabin top directly around the mast is not cored. > Throughout the boat you can see where coring starts and stops by the > thickness changing. A perfect example is near the toe rail. There is a 3" > wide deck section all the way around the boat. I thought it was just a > gutter. It is, but it is also an area which is not cored. Same thing in the > anchor locker as the hull walls approach the toe rail. Repairs from in the > cabin have the challenge of not having direct access to the cabin top since > there is a "headliner". You can inspect and get an idea of what lies ahead > but in order to re-core you would want unfettered access to the entire area > of rot. You'd be best cut around the rim to remove the entire headliner. I > do like the idea of not disturbing the outer skin. If you end up going the > outside route I suggest trying to keep as much of the skin together as a > single piece or symmetrical pieces. A product I like that can finish off > this type of work is kiwi-grip. It is a urethane non-skid with a thick coat > and variable texture. It covers seams in the skins great. > > Rig-rit sells mast boot tape which I like. Black 2mm thick, 5' wide. > http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php > <http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Mast_boot_%20Tape.php> > > As much as I liked the product, when I had my mast re-stepped the yard used > what they had and it seemed like almost exactly the same except that it was > even wider - Like 6 or 7 inches. Call Zanhizers in Solomons MD and they can > probably send you a roll. You might have to talk to Phil or Jack. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > On Fri, Aug 31, 2018, 8:27 PM James Bibb via CnC-List <[email protected] > <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote: > I have some soft deck repair anticipated around my mast opening…above head on > port cabin leading edge where folks jump the halyards and foredeck area where > the bowman has been working since 1991. > > 1991 C&C 34-36R so the deck is composite. I assume also of the most part > however the brief design notes mention a mixture of kevlar and balsa. Does > anybody know where the distinction is around the boat? > > I’ll be removing the mast for this work. > > Also…from below or above? I really want to leave the gelcoat intake and if I > can work on the boat over the next few months…have the heated cabin > environment to help curing. > > Anybody been down this road? > > Also….need to find a replacement mast boot. The current one is worn and > needs replacing. > > > Thanks! > > James Bibb > > SV Darwins Folly > 1991 C&C 34-36R > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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